Never judge a book by its title. This is no global history but a
multi-authored assortment of essays focused on France and Italy,
with a couple of supplementary chapters on modern America. Three
editors of different nationalities, five translators, and 36
experts would have been enough to ensure that the book lacked the
cohesion normally implied by the word 'history' even if Professor
Flandrin hadn't underlined the point by advising readers not to
swallow everything said by the authors of 'certain chapters in Part
One and later'. The book's American editor claims that 'a superb
historical overview... can be gleaned by reading in sequence the
richly elegant introductions by Flandrin and Montanari to each of
the seven sections.' Well, he's entitled to his opinion. But the
newcomer to food history needs both more and less than either the
'overview' or the book itself provides - more, in terms of
comparisions and perspectives, less in terms of symbolism and plain
old-fashioned gastronomic chauvinism. All that having been said,
within its limitations the book contains much interesting material
not readily available elsewhere. The reader who already has a
decent grasp of food history and is therefore able to evaluate the
authors' occasionally eccentric pronouncements will find much to
relish if he/she takes the book for what it is - a roughly
chronological series of snapshots of Mediterranean societies at
particular moments in time. Worth having for the articles on the
ancient Hebrews, the Etruscan diet, the Arab cuisine, the medieval
food trades and guilds, dietary choices and culinary techniques
1500-1800, the emergence of regional cuisines (in France), and the
McDonaldization of modern culture. A desirable book, then, for the
already knowledgeable reader, who is likely to be intrigued,
stimulated and infuriated by turns. Review by REAY TANNAHILL
(Kirkus UK)
When did we first serve meals at regular hours? Why did we begin
using individual plates and utensils to eat? When did "cuisine"
become a concept and how did we come to judge food by its method of
preparation, manner of consumption, and gastronomic merit?
Food: A Culinary History explores culinary evolution and eating
habits from prehistoric times to the present, offering surprising
insights into our social and agricultural practices, religious
beliefs, and most unreflected habits. The volume dispels myths such
as the tale that Marco Polo brought pasta to Europe from China,
that the original recipe for chocolate contained chili instead of
sugar, and more. As it builds its history, the text also reveals
the dietary rules of the ancient Hebrews, the contributions of
Arabic cookery to European cuisine, the table etiquette of the
Middle Ages, and the evolution of beverage styles in early America.
It concludes with a discussion on the McDonaldization of food and
growing popularity of foreign foods today.
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