The name Chanel brings immediately to mind the signature scent
of No. 5 and the understated but sophisticated glamour of a simple
black dress and pearls. But to consider Gabrielle "Coco" Chanel
(1883-1971) as simply a fashion designer fails to capture her
social and cultural significance. As Linda Simon reveals in this
biography, Chanel was an iconoclastic entrepreneur who rebelled
against and manipulated gender expectations of her time. With her
menswear-inspired designs, her loose jersey sweaters belted
jauntily at the waist, and her svelte, unadorned gowns, Chanel
changed women's silhouettes, and she became known as a champion of
women's freedom. Chanel not only changed the shape of women's
clothing, but the narrative of women's lives in the early twentieth
century. From her very first hat shop until her death, Chanel sold
more than fashion--she sold a myth that became as attractive for
many women as her coveted outfits. Simon here teases apart that
myth to explore its contradictions--Chanel was a self-proclaimed
recluse who emerged as one of the most spectacular personalities of
her time; she was a brilliant businesswoman who signed away ninety
percent of her company; and she was a genius who claimed she was
nothing more than an artisan. In this insightful book, Simon
examines the world both reflected and shaped by Chanel, setting her
life and work within the context of women's history in France and
America from the Roaring Twenties to the profound social changes of
the 1960s. Drawing upon rich archival sources, Simon's lively book
is a clear-eyed look at a woman whose influence and legend
transcend the world of fashion.
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