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Androgyne - Fashion and Gender (Hardcover)
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Androgyne - Fashion and Gender (Hardcover)
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'This ad is gender neutral', proclaimed a 2016 poster for the
fashion brand Diesel; 'I resist definitions', announced a Calvin
Klein ad in the same year, while a Louis Vuitton shoot featured
Jaden Smith, son of actor Will Smith, wearing a skirt like a
natural. Fashion magazines have printed countless features on the
blurring of gender barriers, while brands including Yves
Saint-Laurent, Gucci, Burberry, Givenchy and Dolce & Gabbana
have all interpreted the concept 'girls will be boys and boys will
be girls' in their own individual style. The previous turn of the
century was as obsessed with androgyny as this one, as seen in the
art of Edward Burne-Jones and Gustave Moreau, and the writings of
Oscar Wilde and the mystic Josephin Peladan. From the late 19th to
the early 21st century, the genders have blended: from Berlin in
the 1920s to Hollywood of the 1930s with Garbo to Dietrich; from
the 1940s Bright Young Things to the androgynous pop stars of the
1970s, and beyond. What do these variations on a theme have in
common? What has caused the dizzying rise of androgyny? Why has
this concept, a staple of ancient myth that was first discussed in
Plato's Symposium, been revived today? Accompanied by a striking
selection of contemporary photographs, Patrick Mauries presents a
condensed cultural history of androgyny, drawing on the worlds of
art and literature to give us a deeper understanding of the strange
but timeless human drive to escape from defined categories.
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