'I suppose I must have possessed taste buds in my youth,' says
Peter Mayle, 'but they were left undisturbed.' This is part of his
prelude to a delightful account of a lifetime's culinary journey
including some of the most unusual and esoteric eating places in
France. It wasn't until he was obliged to accompany his boss to
Paris, aged only 19, that he was introduced to food as it should
be, rather than that found in the 'gastronomic wilderness' of
post-war England. Here he describes that eye-opening trip and many
others he has made since. His gastronomic experiences are varied
and beautifully told. On one occasion he visits Richerenches and
attends a truffle mass, a sacred event where thanks are given for
the black truffle. Every churchgoer is expected to bring a truffle,
to be auctioned and the proceeds given to charity. Another
ceremonial, if not sacred, event is the Foire au Boudin at Mortagne
au Perche near the lace town of Alencon, held in honour of boudin
noir, a blood sausage made with pork and served on a bed of sliced
cooked apples. Mayle decides to attend a more modest fair, in
Monthureux, north of Dijon, where the attraction is a man who was
said to be able to eat a metre and a half of boudin in 15 minutes.
But he doesn't get there, driving to the wrong Monthureux by
mistake - apparently there are at least three. Instead, he goes to
Vittel in the Vosges area to sample the frogs. After the frogs he
travels to Martigny-les-Bains for the snail fair, the Foire aux
Escargots. Then, just south of St Tropez, there is Club 55 - a
restaurant which has grown from a hut selling grilled sardines to
one patronized by the rich and famous. There follows a visit to a
cheese fair at Livarot in Normandy, a marathon course with a
marquee offering, among other things, 15,000 oysters, 400 kg of
entrecote steak and 160 kg of cheese, a wine auction in Burgundy, a
tour of restaurants listed in the Michelin guide and a spa
restaurant in Eugenie les Bains. Mayle's Provence trilogy has sold
millions of copies worldwide. This witty, superbly observed account
of French cuisine in all its manifestations deserves to do just as
well. (Kirkus UK)
Gastronomy is a wonderful starting point to study France and the French. As the retired schoolmaster from Provence says 'The religion of France is food. And wine, of course.' And they put their money where their mouth is, spending a greater proportion of their income on food and drink than any other nation in the world. Literally hundreds of gastronomic fairs and festivals take place throughout the year all over France - a frog fair, an hommage to the sausage, to the turnip, to the quiche and the noble Camembert. What kind of person is a snail-fancier? Is there a brotherhood of sausage connoisseurs? How can you devote an entire weekend to the French fry? Peter Mayle finds out and brings hilariously and affectionately to life the people who can get passionate about a frog's leg or a well-turned omelette. Over ten years ago he transformed our feelings about Provence, now he captures the irresistible essence of France herself - and her food.
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