Rich with illustrations, this revised and updated second edition of
" Dress Codes" systematically analyzes the meaning and relevance of
clothing in American culture. Presented here is an up-to-date
analysis of images of power and authority, gender, seduction (the
sexy look, the alluring look, the glamorous look, the vulnerable
look), wealth and beauty, youth and health, and leisure and
political hierarchy. Taken together, the chapters offer to the
student and the general reader a complete "semiotics of clothing"
in a form that is highly readable, very entertaining, and
thoroughly informative. The illustrations provide fascinating
glimpses into the history of American fashion and clothing-along
with their antecedents in Europe-as well as a fine collection of
images from the more familiar world of contemporary
America.Rubinstein has identified six distinct categories of dress
in American society, upon which "Dress Codes" is based. "Clothing
signs" were instituted by those in authority, have one meaning,
indicate behavior, and are required attire (police uniforms, or the
clothing of ministers and priests); "clothing symbols," on the
other hand, reflect the achievement of cultural values--wealth,
beauty, you and health. The wearing of clothing symbols--designer
clothing or jewelry--may have several meanings; 'clothing
tie-signs," which are specific types of clothing that indicate
membership in a community outside mainstream culture (Hasidic,
Amish, or Hare Krishna attire). They were instituted by those in
authority, have one meaning, they indicate expected behavior, and
are required attire; "clothing tie symbols" emanate from hopes,
fears, and dreams of particular groups. They include trendy styles
such as hip-hop, hippie, and gothic. Another category,
"contemporary fashion," reflects consumer sentiments and the
political and economic forces of the period. "Personal dress,"
refers to the "I" component we bring in when dressing the public
self (bowtie, dramatic, or artistic attire). Many of these images
have their roots in the "collective memory" of western society.
Written in a lively and entertaining style, "Dress Codes "will
fascinate both general readers and students interested in the
history of fashion and costume, fashion design, human development,
and gender studies.
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