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In 1938 Anderl Heckmair made the first ascent of the North Face of
the Eiger, a monumental climb that cemented his place in history.
In My Life he tells the story of how he turned from a fragile child
wrapped 'quite literally, in cotton bindings,' into one of the most
important mountaineers in the world. Leaving school in 1920,
Heckmair dedicated himself to climbing, becoming a full-time
'mountain vagabond'. Penniless, he lived in Alpine huts and cycled
from climb to climb, even riding from Germany to the High Atlas
mountains of Morocco. He rapidly developed as a mountaineer, making
an ascent of the Walker Spur in awful weather, and a solo ascent of
the Matterhorn in walking shoes, a feat that nobody believed. But
his crowning achievement, climbed in full media glare, would always
be his Eiger ascent. Events did not always run smoothly - arrested
after a quarrel with a farmer, he escaped through a window ('never
imprison mountain climbers in towers'). When arrested again, his
ice axes mistaken for deadly weapons while he slept on a park
bench, Heckmair chose to stay put, preferring the cell bunk to his
bench. At times, the book ventures into darker territory. As one of
the great German climbers of the 1930s, Heckmair inevitably
attracted the attention of the Nazi party, he found his Eiger
triumph twisted to suit their ends, and he himself seated next to
Hitler at a party. At its heart this climbing tale is a celebration
of adventure. Told in joyful, engaging and relaxed style, it is as
full of life and passion for the mountains as Anderl Heckmair
himself.
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