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During the early modern period, objects of maritime material
culture were removed from their places of origin and traded,
collected and displayed worldwide. Focusing on shells and pearls
exchanged within local and global networks, this monograph compares
and connects Asian, in particular Chinese, and European practices
of oceanic exploitation in the framework of a transcultural history
of art with an understanding of maritime material culture as
gendered. Perceiving the ocean as mother of all things, as womb and
birthplace, Chinese and European artists and collectors exoticized
and eroticized shells' shapes and surfaces. Defining China and
Europe as spaces entangled with South and Southeast Asian sites of
knowledge production, source and supply between 1500 and 1700, the
book understands oceanic goods and maritime networks as
transcending and subverting territorial and topographical
boundaries. It also links the study of globally connected port
cities to local ecologies of oceanic exploitation and creative
practices.
A captivating historical look at the cultural and artistic
significance of shells in early modern Europe Among nature's most
artful creations, shells have long inspired the curiosity and
passion of artisans, artists, collectors, and thinkers.
Conchophilia delves into the intimate relationship between shells
and people, offering an unprecedented account of the early modern
era, when the influx of exotic shells to Europe fueled their study
and representation as never before. From elaborate nautilus cups
and shell-encrusted grottoes to delicate miniatures, this richly
illustrated book reveals how the love of shells intersected not
only with the rise of natural history and global trade but also
with philosophical inquiry, issues of race and gender, and the
ascent of art-historical connoisseurship. Shells circulated at the
nexus of commerce and intellectual pursuit, suggesting new ways of
thinking about relationships between Europe and the rest of the
world. The authors focus on northern Europe, where the interest and
trade in shells had its greatest impact on the visual arts. They
consider how shells were perceived as exotic objects, the role of
shells in courtly collections, their place in still-life tableaus,
and the connections between their forms and those of the human
body. They examine how artists gilded, carved, etched, and inked
shells to evoke the permeable boundary between art and nature.
These interactions with shells shaped the ways that early modern
individuals perceived their relation to the natural world, and
their endeavors in art and the acquisition of knowledge. Spanning
painting and print to architecture and the decorative arts,
Conchophilia uncovers the fascinating ways that shells were
circulated, depicted, collected, and valued during a time of
remarkable global change.
The volume examines the mutually constitutive relationship between
the materiality of objects and their aesthetic meanings. Its
approach connects material culture with art history, curation,
technologies and practices of making. A central dimension of the
case studies collected here is the mobility of objects between
Europe and China and the transformations that unfold as a result of
their transcultural lives. Many of the objects studied here are
relatively unknown or understudied. The stories they recount
suggest new ways of thinking about space, cultural geographies and
the complex and often contradictory association of power and
culture. These studies of transcultural objects can suggest
pathways for museum experts by uncovering the multi-layered
identities and temporalities of objects that can no longer be
labelled as located in single regions. It is also addressed to
students of art history, of European and Chinese studies and
scholars of consumer culture. " This eagerly awaited volume offers
deep and extensive insights into the fast-growing field of material
culture studies. Its fresh approach to Eurasian objects and
materialities will serve as useful reading for all scholars
interested in transcultural and global studies. A very helpful
introductory essay. " Sabine du Crest, University of Bordeaux
Montaigne, Former Fellow, The Harvard University Center for Italian
Renaissance Studies.
A captivating historical look at the cultural and artistic
significance of shells in early modern Europe Among nature's most
artful creations, shells have long inspired the curiosity and
passion of artisans, artists, collectors, and thinkers.
Conchophilia delves into the intimate relationship between shells
and people, offering an unprecedented account of the early modern
era, when the influx of exotic shells to Europe fueled their study
and representation as never before. From elaborate nautilus cups
and shell-encrusted grottoes to delicate miniatures, this richly
illustrated book reveals how the love of shells intersected not
only with the rise of natural history and global trade but also
with philosophical inquiry, issues of race and gender, and the
ascent of art-historical connoisseurship. Shells circulated at the
nexus of commerce and intellectual pursuit, suggesting new ways of
thinking about relationships between Europe and the rest of the
world. The authors focus on northern Europe, where the interest and
trade in shells had its greatest impact on the visual arts. They
consider how shells were perceived as exotic objects, the role of
shells in courtly collections, their place in still-life tableaus,
and the connections between their forms and those of the human
body. They examine how artists gilded, carved, etched, and inked
shells to evoke the permeable boundary between art and nature.
These interactions with shells shaped the ways that early modern
individuals perceived their relation to the natural world, and
their endeavors in art and the acquisition of knowledge. Spanning
painting and print to architecture and the decorative arts,
Conchophilia uncovers the fascinating ways that shells were
circulated, depicted, collected, and valued during a time of
remarkable global change.
The term 'jar' refers to any man-made shape with the capacity to
enclose something. Few objects are as universal and
multi-functional as a jar - regardless of whether they contain food
or drink, matter or a void, life-giving medicine or the ashes of
the deceased. As ubiquitous as they may seem, such containers,
storage vessels and urns are, as this book demonstrates, highly
significant cultural and historical artefacts that mediate between
content and environment, exterior worlds and interior enclosures,
local and global, this-worldly and otherworldly realms. The
contributors to this volume understand jars not only as household
utensils or evidence of human civilizations, but also as artefacts
in their own right. Asian jars are culturally and aesthetically
defined crafted goods and as objects charged with spiritual
meanings and ritual significance. Transformative Jars situates
Asian jars in a global context and focuses on relationships between
the filling, emptying and re-filling of jars with a variety of
contents and meanings through time and throughout space.
Transformative Jars brings together an interdisciplinary team of
scholars with backgrounds in curating, art history and anthropology
to offer perspectives that go beyond archaeological approaches with
detailed analyses of a broad range of objects. By looking at jars
as things in the hands of makers, users and collectors, this book
presents these objects as agents of change in cultures of
craftsmanship and consumption.
A resplendent celebration of the spectacular fashion designs of Guo
Pei, China's first and preeminent couturier Guo Pei: Couture
Fantasy is a journey into the imaginative world of Guo Pei, China's
first couturier and one of the world's most innovative fashion
designers. Guo Pei has astonished fashion audiences from Beijing to
Paris for over 20 years and made headlines in the U.S. as the
designer of Rihanna's trailing yellow gown at the 2015 Met Gala.
Known for dazzling designs which make the implausible possible, Guo
Pei takes inspiration from sources as varied as China's imperial
heritage, European architecture, and the botanical world; she has
been sought for commissions by celebrities, royalty, and the
Olympics. With more than 200 color illustrations highlighting 60 of
her exquisite creations, this sumptuous volume showcases the
garments' consummate craftsmanship, lavish embroidery, and
unconventional dressmaking techniques, all of which are hallmarks
of Guo Pei's work. In addition to its visual splendor, the book
features a Q&A with the designer, a facsimile sketchbook, and a
chronology tracing her career from its start at the Beijing
Industrial School of Design to celebrated couturier. Published in
association with the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco Exhibition
Schedule: Legion of Honor, Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco
(April 16-September 5, 2022)
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