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California Condors, Boris Karloff as Frankenstein, Japanese horror
films and Gordon Matta-Clark are among the many influences that
make up the world of Rodarte. In just five short years, Rodarte has
upended the fashion scene, bringing Kate and Laura Mulleavy, the
designers behind the company, to the forefront of contemporary
design and visual culture. Kate and Laura, who live and work
between downtown Los Angeles and Pasadena, California, have
consistently brought their love of nature, film, art and science to
bear upon their unconventional and exquisitely crafted collections.
Burning, sanding, dyeing, knitting, twisting, staining and weaving
are some of the many complex techniques that have entered into the
Rodarte textural vocabulary. Kate and Laura's past collaborations
have included artists, actors, musicians and writers such as
Miranda July, Autumn de Wilde, Ryan McGinley, Ari Marcopoulos and
Darren Aronofsky. Created in collaboration with two of the art
world's most sought-after and acclaimed photographers, Catherine
Opie and Alec Soth, this is the first publication to examine the
world of Rodarte. For the occasion, each photographer has developed
an entirely new body of work in collaboration with Kate and Laura
Mulleavy, examining the many facets of Rodarte's creative
spectrum.
Without any formal training in fashion, California-raised sisters
Kate and Laura Mulleavy, working as Rodarte, have become the most
celebrated American designers at work today. Celebrities such as
Kirsten Dunst, Natalie Portman and Charlotte Gainsbourg have all
expressed their admiration for the Mulleavys, and Michelle Obama
wore Rodarte at the opening ceremony of the 121st IOC session at
the Copenhagen Opera House.
A Candid Portrait of the 1990s New Wave of Queer Culture In the
1990s, queer youth, outcasts and artists, flocked to San Francisco
to find one another and to experiment with art, self-expression,
style, and gender. Rent was affordable, paving the way for queer
bars, clubs, tattoo shops, galleries, cafes, bookstores, and
women-owned businesses to emerge. A new wave of feminism embraced
gender bending, and butch/femme culture flourished. The Mission
District was the center of this queer cultural renaissance, and the
feeling of community was palpable. Chloe Sherman was both a member
of this community and an ardent visual chronicler. Her documentary
photographic work on 35mm film stems from a commitment to capturing
the vibrancy, tenderness, individuality, resilience, and joy within
this subculture that was derided by mainstream society. Distilling
the spirit of the time, her debut monograph is a candid portrait of
a vibrant era that connects current and future generations to the
pulse of San Francisco at a pivotal chapter in queer history.
Celebrated photographer Catherine Opie (born 1961) has long
documented the faces and landscapes of American communities, both
inside and outside the mainstream. The subjects of her highly
regarded portraits have ranged from California surfers, friends and
fixtures in LGBT communities, high school football players and the
artist herself. In this series of photographs documenting the
inauguration of President Barack Obama, Opie broadens her focus to
an expanded community of Americans: on January 20, 2009, over one
million people gathered on the national mall to see the swearing in
of America's first black president, united by their pride at what
had been accomplished and a collective hope for the future. In the
tradition of Robert Frank's photographs of the 1956 Democratic
National Convention in Chicago and William Eggleston's 1976
"Election Eve" series, Opie's" Inauguration," a series of 100
photographs, offers an intimate political and personal view of one
of the most public days of a nation. Accompanying texts by author,
curator and photo-historian Deborah Willis and writer Eileen Myles
address the significance of Opie's achievement with this body of
work and further explore the wonder, elation and the self-conscious
anticipations of this historic moment.
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