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This illustrated survey of 600 years of fashion investigates its
cultural and social meanings from medieval Europe to 20th-century
America. It provides a guide to the changes in style and taste, and
challenges existing fashion histories, showing that clothes have
always played a pivotal role in defining a sense of identity and
society, especially when concerned with sexual and body politics.
With a chronological structure, each chapter focuses on both male
and female fashion of a specific period, covering its fascinating
developments. It discusses: androgynous dressing; body piercing;
fabrics, clothing and the rise of city life; dress, and the
changing shape of the human body; controversies surrounding
trousers and leg wear for both men and women; exposure of flesh;
fashion and social status; and the dissemination of fashion through
travel, film, magazines and catwalk shows. -- .
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GUCCI: The Making Of (Hardcover)
Frida Giannini; Contributions by Katie Grand, Peter Arnell, Rula Jebreal, Christopher Breward
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R2,459
R1,914
Discovery Miles 19 140
Save R545 (22%)
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Ships in 9 - 15 working days
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An unprecedented publication showcasing Gucci as never before,
including thought-provoking essays, commentaries, and authoritative
anecdotes along with previously unpublished contemporary and
archival photographs. Published in conjunction with the opening of
the new Gucci Museum in Florence, Gucci is the ultimate celebration
of the world-renowned fashion house. Told through a loose grouping
of words, concepts, shapes, and moods, the book tells its story
through new conceptual forms and the free links between images,
symbols, and objects. Edited by Gucci Creative Director Frida
Giannini, with essays and inserts by contributors including Katie
Grand, Peter Arnell, Rula Jebreal, Christopher Breward and Stefano
Micelli, Gucci: The Making Of is a dynamic record of a much-coveted
brand that will be a must this season for anyone with a love of
fashion and an interest in contemporary culture. This comprehensive
volume showcases the genius of the fashion house through an
exclusive lens with inside looks into the inspirations behind the
design. This gorgeous book designed by Arnell offers an in-depth
look into Gucci's origins, identity, influence, and innovation,
including fabrication methods and appropriation of signature
materials, past and present, and its influence among high society
and Hollywood. The book is a heartfelt and personalized tribute to
the heritage and influence of this iconic, multifaceted brand. In
recognition of its ongoing partnership with UNICEF and the release
of this luxury edition, Gucci will make a donation of US $250,000
to support UNICEF's Schools for Africa initiative.
The study of fashion has expanded into a thriving field of inquiry,
with researchers utilizing diverse methods from across subject
disciplines to explore fashion and dress in wide-ranging contexts.
With an emphasis on material culture and ethnographic approaches in
fashion studies, this groundbreaking volume offers fascinating
insights into the complex dynamics of research and fashion.
Featuring unique case studies, with interdisciplinary scholars
reflecting on their practical research experiences, Fashion Studies
provides rich and nuanced perspectives on the use, and mixing and
matching of methodological approaches - including object and image
based research, the integration of qualitative and quantitative
methods and the fluid bridging of theory and practice. Engaging
with diverse subjects, from ethnographies of model casting and
street-style blogging, wardrobe studies and a material culture
analysis of global denim wearing, to Martin Margiela's design and
archival methods, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a
lively and informative manner that will appeal to students of
fashion, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and related
fields.
Styling Shanghai is the first book dedicated to exploring the
city's fashion cultures, examining its growing status as one of the
world's foremost fashion cities. From its origins as an
international treaty port in the 19th century, Shanghai has emerged
as a global leader in the production, mediation and consumption of
fashion. This book reveals how the material and imaginative context
of this thriving urban centre has produced vivid interpretations of
fashion as object, image and idea. Bringing together contributions
by a range of leading international fashion historians and
theorists, and drawing on extensive original research, Styling
Shanghai offers an interdisciplinary analysis of the mega-city's
shifting position as a fashion capital. Rooted in collaboration
between leading UK, Australian and Shanghai-based institutions, it
considers the impact of local and global textile manufacturing, the
representation and marketing of 'Shanghai Style', bodies and gender
in the 'Paris of the East', and the challenges of globalization,
commercialization and digital communication in contemporary
Shanghai.
The Suit unpicks the story of this most familiar garment, from its
emergence in western Europe at the end of the seventeenth century
to today. Suit-wearing figures such as the Savile Row gentleman and
the Wall Street businessman have long embodied ideas of tradition,
masculinity, power and respectability, but the suit has also been
used to disrupt concepts of gender and conformity. Adopted and
subverted by women, artists, musicians and social revolutionaries
through the decades â from dandies and Sapeurs to the Zoot Suit
and Le Smoking â the suit is also a device for challenging the
status quo. For all those interested in the history of menswear,
this beautifully illustrated book offers new perspectives on this
most mundane, and poetic, product of modern culture.
British Design brings together leading international scholars,
designers and journalists to provide new perspectives on British
design in the last sixty years, and how it at once looked back to
the past with the continuation of traditions that spoke to
Britain's design heritage, and looked forwards with the embrace of
modernist and postmodernist style. The book responds to and
develops new ways of understanding the recent history of design in
Britain, with case studies on designed spaces and objects,
including domestic interiors, retail spaces, schools and university
buildings and transport. The contributors address significant
moments and phenomena in the historical and social history of
British design, from the rise and fall of the English Country House
style and the Brutalist architectural boom of the 1960s to the
modern shopping space, and consider the work of key contemporary
designers ranging from Tommy Roberts to Thomas Heatherwick. British
Design provides new criticism and analysis on how design, from the
immediate post-war period to the present day, has developed and
changed how we live and how we interact with the spaces in which we
live. British Design is split into 13 chapters and is richly
illustrated with 65 images, 16 of which are in full colour.
New York, Paris, London, Milan, Tokyo. This familiar list of cities
conjures up the image of high fashion. This book examines the
powerful relationship between metropolitan modernity and fashion
culture. The authors look at the significance of certain key sites
in fashion's world order and at transformations in the connections
between key cities. The status of fashion capital has now become a
goal for urban boosters and planners, part of the wider promotion
of the 'cultural economy' of major cities. In a rapidly changing
global fashion system, new centres like Shanghai are making claims
to join the ranks of Fashion's World Cities. In chapters ranging
from Los Angeles to Moscow and Dakar to Mumbai, Fashion's World
Cities explores the relationship between major metropolises and the
production, consumption and mythologizing of fashion.
New York, Paris, London, Milan, Tokyo. This familiar list of cities
conjures up the image of high fashion. This book examines the
powerful relationship between metropolitan modernity and fashion
culture. The authors look at the significance of certain key sites
in fashion's world order and at transformations in the connections
between key cities. The status of fashion capital has now become a
goal for urban boosters and planners, part of the wider promotion
of the "cultural economy" of major cities. In a rapidly changing
global fashion system new centres like Shanghai are making claims
to join the ranks of Fashion's World Cities. In chapters ranging
from Los Angeles to Moscow and Dakar to Mumbai, Fashion's World
Cities explores the relationship between major metropolises and the
production, consumption and mythologizing of fashion.
If fashion is an expression of individuality, why do we all dress
alike? Can modernity be described as the experience of 'feeling
modern' and, if so, what part does fashion play? Answering these
intriguing questions and many more, this pioneering book shows how
the concepts of fashion and modernity are intimately linked. It
argues that capitalism and identity construction as social
processes both have symbiotic relationships with the fashion
system. Technology, the body, nationality and gender are informed
and shaped by modernity, and vice versa. Drawing on key modernist
texts as well as fashion theory and practice, this book seeks
broadly to cover the history of fashion and modernity, a topic that
has been surprisingly overlooked. Tackling themes including court
masques in seventeenth-century London, Paris couturiers and
forensic laboratories in twentieth-century Washington, the authors
show how fashion throughout history has been a cornerstone in the
construction of a modern self.
If fashion is an expression of individuality, why do we all dress
alike? Can modernity be described as the experience of 'feeling
modern' and, if so, what part does fashion play? Answering these
intriguing questions and many more, this pioneering book shows how
the concepts of fashion and modernity are intimately linked. It
argues that capitalism and identity construction as social
processes both have symbiotic relationships with the fashion
system. Technology, the body, nationality and gender are informed
and shaped by modernity, and vice versa. Drawing on key modernist
texts as well as fashion theory and practice, this book seeks
broadly to cover the history of fashion and modernity, a topic that
has been surprisingly overlooked. Tackling themes including court
masques in seventeenth-century London, Paris couturiers and
forensic laboratories in twentieth-century Washington, the authors
show how fashion throughout history has been a cornerstone in the
construction of a modern self.
Over the past three centuries, London has established itself as one
of the worlds most inventive fashion capitals. City life and
fashion have always been intertwined, but nowhere has this
relationship been more excitingly expressed than on the streets of
London. Fashioning London looks at the manner in which particular
styles of dress became associated with this leading international
city, ultimately challenging the dominance of Paris, Milan and New
York.From the ballrooms and boxing rings of the eighteenth century,
through Victorian extremes of poverty and conspicuous consumption,
to the flamboyant explosions of subcultural taste that define the
capital today, Londoners have constantly offered an idiosyncratic
reading of fashionability that has profoundly influenced the nature
of style elsewhere. Breward constructs an original history of
clothing in London its manufacture, promotion and cultural meaning
while showing how issues of space, architecture and performance
impinge on notions of fashionability. It highlights the importance
of such outfits as the dandy's suit, the dolly bird's mini-skirt
and the second-hand ensemble of the punk in forming our
understanding of the capital's distinctive character. Drawing on a
range of sources, including paintings, street photography, maps,
tourist guides, literature, stage and press representations,
Fashioning London paints a vivid and definitive portrait of Londons
iconoclastic style.
Is there a peculiarly English 'look' and if so how does one define
it? From the 'traditional' dress of the Victorian rural working
class through to the contemporary collections of Vivienne Westwood
and a younger generation of London-based designers, notions of
Englishness, either real or imagined, have always been at play in
considerations of English fashion and clothing. This provocative
book explores how far these fraught ideals can be applied to the
dress of the past and present. English expressions of taste and
creativity have had a profound influence on style over the last
three centuries, and the pursuit and subversion of an English
'look' have shaped conceptions of fashionability from the
pastoralism of the eighteenth-century through to the eras of
Twiggy, Punk and beyond. But are these simply stereotypical
characterizations that relate to an imagined 'Englishness', or is
there some concrete basis for them? If the former, what has led to
their development? If the latter, what definitions can be employed
to unravel such complicated conceptions of national identity? What
role has social decorum played in developing an 'English' style,
and is this preoccupation with etiquette in fact unique to England
? With chapters authored by leading scholars in the fields of
costume history, social history and cultural studies, this is the
first book to examine the ways in which fashion and dress might be
considered in the context of national identities as they apply in
England. Presenting an overview of how particular designers and
consumer groups have striven to present or contest versions of
Englishness through clothing from the 18th through to the 21st
centuries, it will fascinate anyone interested in dress history,
national and ethnic identity or English cultural history.
This book examines the way that objects 'speak' to us through the
memories that we associate with them. Instead of viewing the
meaning of particular designs as fixed and given, by looking at the
process of evocation it finds an open and continuing dialogue
between things, their makers and their consumers. This is not,
however, to diminish the role of design in shaping human
consciousness. The contributors do not view objects as blank
carriers onto which humans project prior psychic dramas, but
rather, place crucial importance on the precise materials from
which they are made, their social, economic and historic reasons
for being, and the way that we interact with them through our
senses. This book therefore studies the physical within the
intellectual, directly testing the concept of material culture.With
telling illustrations, and spanning the Renaissance to the present
day, leading scholars converge across disciplines to explore the
souvenir-value of jewellery, textiles, the home, the urban space,
modernist design, photography, the museum and even the sunken
wreck. Together they show how the sense of the past and of history,
far from being a 'radical illusion' as some post-modernists claim,
has been a deeply felt reality.
The study of fashion has expanded into a thriving field of inquiry,
with researchers utilizing diverse methods from across subject
disciplines to explore fashion and dress in wide-ranging contexts.
With an emphasis on material culture and ethnographic approaches in
fashion studies, this groundbreaking volume offers fascinating
insights into the complex dynamics of research and fashion.
Featuring unique case studies, with interdisciplinary scholars
reflecting on their practical research experiences, Fashion Studies
provides rich and nuanced perspectives on the use, and mixing and
matching of methodological approaches - including object and image
based research, the integration of qualitative and quantitative
methods and the fluid bridging of theory and practice. Engaging
with diverse subjects, from ethnographies of model casting and
street-style blogging, wardrobe studies and a material culture
analysis of global denim wearing, to Martin Margiela's design and
archival methods, Fashion Studies presents complex approaches in a
lively and informative manner that will appeal to students of
fashion, anthropology, sociology, cultural studies and related
fields.
Is there a peculiarly English 'look' and if so how does one define
it?
From the 'traditional' dress of the Victorian rural working class
through to the contemporary collections of Vivienne Westwood and a
younger generation of London-based designers, notions of
Englishness, either real or imagined, have always been at play in
considerations of English fashion and clothing. This provocative
book explores how far these fraught ideals can be applied to the
dress of the past and present. English expressions of taste and
creativity have had a profound influence on style over the last
three centuries, and the pursuit and subversion of an English
'look' have shaped conceptions of fashionability from the
pastoralism of the eighteenth-century through to the eras of
Twiggy, Punk and beyond. But are these simply stereotypical
characterizations that relate to an imagined 'Englishness', or is
there some concrete basis for them? If the former, what has led to
their development? If the latter, what definitions can be employed
to unravel such complicated conceptions of national identity? What
role has social decorum played in developing an 'English' style,
and is this preoccupation with etiquette in fact unique to England
?
With chapters authored by leading scholars in the fields of costume
history, social history and cultural studies, this is the first
book to examine the ways in which fashion and dress might be
considered in the context of national identities as they apply in
England. Presenting an overview of how particular designers and
consumer groups have striven to present or contest versions of
Englishness through clothing from the 18th through to the 21st
centuries, it will fascinate anyone interested in dress history,
national and ethnic identity or English cultural history.
This book examines the way that objects 'speak' to us through the
memories that we associate with them. Instead of viewing the
meaning of particular designs as fixed and given, by looking at the
process of evocation it finds an open and continuing dialogue
between things, their makers and their consumers. This is not,
however, to diminish the role of design in shaping human
consciousness. The contributors do not view objects as blank
carriers onto which humans project prior psychic dramas, but
rather, place crucial importance on the precise materials from
which they are made, their social, economic and historic reasons
for being, and the way that we interact with them through our
senses. This book therefore studies the physical within the
intellectual, directly testing the concept of material culture.With
telling illustrations, and spanning the Renaissance to the present
day, leading scholars converge across disciplines to explore the
souvenir-value of jewellery, textiles, the home, the urban space,
modernist design, photography, the museum and even the sunken
wreck. Together they show how the sense of the past and of history,
far from being a 'radical illusion' as some post-modernists claim,
has been a deeply felt reality.
Over the past three centuries, London has established itself as one
of the worlds most inventive fashion capitals. City life and
fashion have always been intertwined, but nowhere has this
relationship been more excitingly expressed than on the streets of
London. Fashioning London looks at the manner in which particular
styles of dress became associated with this leading international
city, ultimately challenging the dominance of Paris, Milan and New
York.From the ballrooms and boxing rings of the eighteenth century,
through Victorian extremes of poverty and conspicuous consumption,
to the flamboyant explosions of subcultural taste that define the
capital today, Londoners have constantly offered an idiosyncratic
reading of fashionability that has profoundly influenced the nature
of style elsewhere. Breward constructs an original history of
clothing in London its manufacture, promotion and cultural meaning
while showing how issues of space, architecture and performance
impinge on notions of fashionability. It highlights the importance
of such outfits as the dandy's suit, the dolly bird's mini-skirt
and the second-hand ensemble of the punk in forming our
understanding of the capital's distinctive character. Drawing on a
range of sources, including paintings, street photography, maps,
tourist guides, literature, stage and press representations,
Fashioning London paints a vivid and definitive portrait of Londons
iconoclastic style.
|
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