In spite of urbanization and commercialization, the Hawaiian Islands have managed to retain what used to be called "soul: " culture and behavior as spontaneous expressions of humanity.

Each picture in this collection represents a person, place or event that spoke to me in some way, and provided reassurance that Island Soul survives and thrives even in unlikely places.

I hope that viewing them gives you a sense of happiness and harmony, a feeling of Island Soul.

2014 expanded edition - Longboard + Shortboard - it's all here. New Shortboard section* with multiple images and analysis of common moves including off-the-lip and aerials, plus common errors to avoid.
New information, additional graphics, more detailed explanations.
New layout for easier reading (and Kindle viewing).
*For an all-shortboard experience try the DVD: "Surf Better - Shortboard" in both Regular and Goofy-foot editions.

Surf Better is a must-have book for surfers, ocean-goers and anyone looking for a simple, effective way to get in shape and stay there. A complete surfing program including fitness, tactics and techniques, wave knowledge, and more. Fully illustrated.
Instructional surfing photos
Surfing technique and check list
Dry Land Surf School with workouts and agility drills
Understanding waves and swell direction
Surfing a new break
How to read waves, rips and boils
Using tides and currents.

PART I: SURFING TECHNIQUE
Preparation and takeoff - Turns - Shortboard Moves - Integrated vs. delayed rotation - Off the lip - Air - Foot position - Frontside vs. Backside - Technical practice checklist - Leash management and the "Houdini Moment"

PART II: KNOW YOUR OCEAN
Sea, swell and waves - Wave formation and propagation - How waves travel - How fast do waves move? - What defines "deep water" and "shallow water?" - Ocean facts

PART III: KNOW YOUR BREAK
Swell direction and the "magic number" - Tides - Wave refraction and Island wave shadows - The effects of wind - How waves behave in shallow water - Interpreting swell information - Understanding size vs. power - Using reef boils - Using currents

PART IV: DRY LAND SURF SCHOOL
Full flexibility, agility and surf simulation section with dozens of exercises and workout packages.

..".then he floated an "Off the lip, center my ass by bringing my board back under me recovery"-pretty awesome move and proof that his book is working."