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Costume jewellery is commonly understood to mean fashionable yet
affordable adornments made from non-precious material. Originating
in in mid-1700s France with the rise of the bourgeoise, the
earliest 'costume jewellery' mimicked fine jewellery styles. Since
then, costume jewellery has always been evolving. From Victorian
sentimentalism to the mass-produced ornaments available today,
costume jewellery has developed into an artform in its own right.
An encyclopaedic study of its history is long overdue. Flush with
expert information, identification tips and historical anecdotes,
Adorning Fashion explores the development of costume jewellery
across the past four centuries. The styles of each era - Victorian,
Edwardian, Arts & Crafts, Jugenstil, Art Nouveau, and each
decade of the twentieth century - are given individual attention.
Production methods are also explained in depth. Alloys and gilded
electroplating can mimic silver and gold, while the refraction
index of treated glass can, to the untrained eye, be mistaken for
diamond. Adorning Fashion discusses the contributions of a
remarkable roster of designers and innovators, including Kokichi
Mikimoto, Arthur L. Liberty, Carlo Giuliano, Rene Lalique,
Elizabeth Bonte, the Castellani brothers, Jean Fouquet, Jean
Despres, Fulco di Verdura, Jean Schlumberger, Salvador Dali, Miriam
Haskell, Lina Baretti, Countess Cissy Zoltowska, Line Vautrin,
Kenneth Jay Lane, Francisco Rebajes, Diane Love, Christian Dior,
Balenciaga, Chanel, Van Cleef & Arpels, Paco Rabanne, Yves
Saint Laurent, Napier, Haskell, Trifari, Brania, Bulgari, Versace
and more.
In Italy there has always been a tradition of making jewelery from
semi-precious metal, as copies or prototypes of fine jewelery.
Fashion Jewelery: Made in Italy moves chronologically through the
last 100 years, with pieces from the beginning of the 20th century,
through to the years spent under fascist rule, when jewelery had to
be strictly made with local material such as wood, cork, straw,
venetian glass and coral. The 50s and 60s allowed for the very
first big names in fashion jewelery to arise: Giuliano Fratti, Emma
Caimi Pellini, Sharra Pagano, Ugo Correani, Coppola e Toppo,
Luciana de Reutern, Canesi, Ornella...The book reserves a special
place for an important phenomenon that took place in Milan at the
end of the 1970s - "Made in Italy" - when Italian fashion entered
(and dominated) the international scene, and Italian designers such
as Armani, Versace, Ferre, and later on, Moschino and Prada found
incredible success all over the world. Throughout the 80s and 90s,
and well into the year 2000 further names in fashion jewellery were
pushed to the fore: Carlo Zini, Angela Caputi, Maria Calderara,
Giorgio Vigna, Fabio Cammarata, Emilio Cressoni, Robert Tomas,
Irene Moret, Silvia Beccaria, among others. The final section of
the book is devoted to new talents, selecting ten designers whose
jewels are particularly interesting and innovative. Famous houses
that the jewellery was made for include: Bijoux Bozart, Biki, Carlo
Zini, Chanel, Chloe, Coppla E Toppo, Edoardo Saronni, Emilio Pucci,
Etro, Fiorucci, Flos Ad Florem, Gianfranco Ferre, Giorgio Armani,
Giuliano Fratti, Irene Galitzine, Karl Lagerfeld, Luciana De
Reutern, Marni, Missoni, Misterfox, Moschino, Prada, Roberto
Capucci, Schiaparelli, Sharra Pagano, Ugo Correani, Unger,
Valentino, Versace.
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