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Dress is a key marker of difference. It is closely attached to the
body, part of the daily routine, and an unavoidable means of
communication. The clothes people wear tell stories about their
allegiances and identities but also about their exclusion and
stigmatization. They allow for the display of wealth and can
mercilessly display poverty and indigence. Clothes also enable
people to play with identities and affinities: for instance,
individuals can claim higher social status via their clothes. In
many ways, dress is thus open to manipulation by the wearer and
misinterpretation by the observer. Authorities-whether religious or
secular, local or regional-have always aimed at imposing order on
this potential muddle. This is particularly true for the early
modern era, when the world became ever more complex. In Europe, the
composition of societies diversified with the emergence of new
social groups and increasing migration and travel. Thanks to
intensified long-distance trade and technological developments, new
fashionable clothes and accessories entered the market. With the
emergence of a consumer culture, it was now the case that not only
the extremely wealthy could afford at least the occasional
indulgence in luxury items and accessories. Over recent years,
research has focused on a variety of areas related to dress and
appearance in the context of early-modern political,
socio-economic, and cultural transformations both within Europe and
related to its entanglement with other parts of the world.
Nevertheless, a significant compartmentalization in the research on
dress and appearance remains: research is often organized around
particular cities and territories, and much research is still
framed by modern national boundaries. This special issue looks at
dress and its perception in Europe from a transcultural perspective
and highlights the many differences that clothing can express.
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(2)
R205
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