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On January 21, 1971, couturier Yves Saint Laurent presented his
Spring-Summer haute couture collection. Inspired by the garments of
the war years, the collection included short dresses, platform
shoes, square shoulders, and exaggerated makeup. The show caused an
outrage among the public, the critics, and the press alike, earning
it the title of "Paris's ugliest collection." Nevertheless, the
haute couture designs of the runway made their way to the
boulevards, giving full sway to the "retro" trend that quickly
conquered the streets. Yves Saint Laurent: The Scandal Collection,
1971 offers a behind-the-scenes look at the influential collection
that "drew fire in the fashion world" from the collection's
inspiration to the press coverage that followed. Beautifully
illustrated and documented with well-researched essays, this book
is enriched with personal interviews and archival photographs of
the show, the models, the designs, and the textile and print
samples, as well as sketches and international press clippings.
Before the outbreak of WWII, French fashion represented the very
pinnacle of style, and French women the epitome of chic. At home
and abroad, couturiers' wealthy clients eagerly awaited the latest
collections, and design houses throughout the world looked to Paris
for inspiration. Unparalleled for glamour and elegance, all things
French were noted and emulated - and especially French fashion.One
morning in September 1939, into this idyllic world of haute couture
and Cafe society came the shattering experience of war, followed by
the German Occupation. French women, determined not to give way to
the inevitable austerities, sought innovation: hats made from
blotting paper or newspapers - the latter signalling political
allegiances - and blouses made out of parachute silk, often
obtained through dubious means. Not only did life go on, but
creativity flourished - culottes, which enabled stylish bicycle
journeys, became the vogue, and couturiers capitalized on
deprivation with wit - dubbing designs 'Coal' and 'Black Coffee',
or naming an entire collection after Metro stops.Fashion under the
Occupation provides the only in-depth history of these blackest
years in French history, long overlooked by fashion history because
of the impoverished industry and deprivations that affected design.
Widely acknowledged as the authoritative work on fashion during
this period, it is available in English for the first time and will
be essential reading for anyone interested in fashion, French
cultural history, and particularly the German Occupation of France.
Before the outbreak of WWII, French fashion represented the very
pinnacle of style, and French women the epitome of chic. At home
and abroad, couturiers' wealthy clients eagerly awaited the latest
collections, and design houses throughout the world looked to Paris
for inspiration. Unparalleled for glamour and elegance, all things
French were noted and emulated - and especially French fashion.
One morning in September 1939, into this idyllic world of haute
couture and Cafe society came the shattering experience of war,
followed by the German Occupation. French women, determined not to
give way to the inevitable austerities, sought innovation: hats
made from blotting paper or newspapers - the latter signalling
political allegiances - and blouses made out of parachute silk,
often obtained through dubious means. Not only did life go on, but
creativity flourished - culottes, which enabled stylish bicycle
journeys, became the vogue, and couturiers capitalized on
deprivation with wit - dubbing designs 'Coal' and 'Black Coffee',
or naming an entire collection after Metro stops.
Fashion under the Occupation provides the only in-depth history of
these blackest years in French history, long overlooked by fashion
history because of the impoverished industry and deprivations that
affected design. Widely acknowledged as the authoritative work on
fashion during this period, it is available in English for the
first time and will be essential reading for anyone interested in
fashion, French cultural history, and particularly the German
Occupation of France.
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