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Medieval Clothing and Textiles 1 (Hardcover)
Robin Netherton, Gale R. Owen-Crocker; Contributions by Carla Tilghman, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Gale R. Owen-Crocker, …
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First volume in new series dedicated to medieval clothing and
textiles, drawing from a range of disciplines and with a special
focus on reconstruction and re-enactment. The study of medieval
clothing and textiles has aroused great attention in recent years,
as part of the growing concern in material culture as a whole;
apart from its own intrinsic interest, it has much to reveal about
life at thetime. This exciting new series aims to offer all those
interested in the subject the fruits of the best research in the
area. Interdisciplinary in approach, it will feature work from the
fields of social and economic history, history of techniques and
technology, art history, archaeology, literary and non-literary
texts, and language, while experimental reconstruction of medieval
techniques or artifacts will also form a particular focus. The
contents of each volume are selected to cover a broad geographical
scope, as well as a range of periods from early medieval to the
late Middle Ages. The journal also publishes short reviews of new
books. Topics in this first volume include Anglo-Saxon embroidery;
textiles and textile imagery in the Exeter Book; the tippet; the
regulation of clerical dress; and evidence for dress and textiles
in late medieval English wills. ROBIN NETHERTON is a
costumehistorian. Her research focuses on Western European clothing
between the twelfth and fifteenth centuries. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER
is Professor of Anglo-Saxon Culture, University of Manchester. She
has a special interest in dress throughout the medieval period -
she advises on dress entries to the Toronto Old English Dictionary
and has consulted for many museums and television companies.
Essays on costume, fabric and clothing in the Middle Ages and
beyond. All those who work with historical dress and textiles must
in some way re-fashion them. This fundamental concept is developed
and addressed by the articles collected here, ranging over issues
of gender, status and power. Topics include: the repurposing and
transformation of material items for purposes of religion,
memorialisation, restoration and display; attempts to regulate
dress, both ecclesiastical and secular, the reasons for it and the
refashioning which was both a result and a reaction; conventional
ways in which dress was used to characterise children, and their
transition into young men; how symbolism-laded dress items could
indicate political/religious affiliations; waysin which
allegorical, biblical and historical figures were depicted in art
in dress familiar to the viewers of their own era, and the emotive
and intellectual responses to these costumes the artists sought to
elicit; and the use of clothing in medieval literature (often rich,
exotic or unique) as narrative, structuring and rhetorical devices.
Taken together, they honour the costume historian and editor Robin
Netherton, who has been hugely influentialin the development of
medieval and Renaissance dress and textile studies. GALE R.
OWEN-CROCKER is Professor Emerita at the University of Manchester;
MAREN CLEGG HYER is Professor of English at Valdosta State
University. Contributors: Melanie Schuessler Bond, Elizabeth
Coatsworth, Lisa Evans, Gina Frasson-Hudson, Charney Goldman,
Sarah-Grace Heller, Maren Clegg Hyer, John Friedman, Thomas
Izbicki, Drea Leed, Christine Meek, M.A. Nordtorp-Madson, Gale R.
Owen-Crocker, Lucia Sinisi, Monica L. Wright.
Goldsmiths' products examined, combining discussion of object with
analysis of inscription and design, and literary and archaeological
evidence for smiths and their work. Throughout the Anglo-Saxon
period, goldsmiths produced work of a high standard in both design
and craftsmanship, both for personal adornment, and to embellish
bookbindings, reliquaries, vessels and weapons. Some works are well
known, particularly the magnificent gold and garnet regalia from
Sutton Hoo, but this represents only a fraction even of the
surviving work, and much more has been lost. This book is the first
to look at the goldsmiths' products through the eyes of both a
specialist in the period and a practical craftsman, combining close
examination of the surface and structure of the objects with
analysis of inscriptions and evidence for design, and with literary
and visualsources of evidence for smiths and their work.
Archaeological and documentary evidence for workshops, tools and
working processes is also assessed, and up-to-date technical
information on materials and techniques is juxtaposed with new
practical research to throw light on manufacturing and decorative
processes, and, more widely, to give a fresh idea of the position
of the goldsmith in his society. Dr ELIZABETH COATSWORTH is Senior
Lecturer inthe Department of History of Art and Design, Manchester
Metropolitan University; Dr MICHAEL PINDER is Senior Lecturer in
the Department of Architecture, Landscape and 3DD, at the same
university.
Essays centred round the representation of weaving, both real and
imagined, in the early middle ages. The triple themes of textile,
text, and intertext, three powerful and evocative subjects within
both Anglo-Saxon studies and Old English literature itself, run
through the essays collected here. Chapters evoke the semantic
complexities of textile references and images drawn from the Bayeux
Tapestry, examine parallels in word-woven poetics, riddling texts,
and interwoven homiletic and historical prose, and identify
iconographical textures in medieval art. The volume thus considers
the images and creative strategies of textiles, texts, and
intertexts, generating a complex and fascinating view of the
material culture and metaphorical landscape of the Anglo-Saxon
peoples. It is therefore a particularly fitting tribute to
Professor Gale R. Owen-Crocker, whose career and lengthy list of
scholarly works have centred on her interests in the meaning and
cultural importance of textiles, manuscripts and text, and
intertextual relationships between text and textile. MAREN CLEGG
HYER is Associate Professor and Graduate Coordinator in the
Department of English at Valdosta State University; JILL FREDERICK
is Professor of English at Minnesota State University Moorhead.
Contributors: Marilina Cesario, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Martin Foys,
Jill Frederick, Joyce Hill, Maren Clegg Hyer, Catherine E. Karkov,
Christina Lee, Michael Lewis, Robin Netherton, Carol Neuman de
Vegvar, Donald Scragg, Louise Sylvester, Paul Szarmach, Elaine
Treharne.
The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing
from a range of disciplines. The usual wide range of approaches to
garments and fabrics appears in this tenth volume. Three chapters
focus on practical matters: a description of the medieval vestments
surviving at Castel Sant'Elia in Italy; a survey of the spread of
silk cultivation to Europe before 1300; and a documentation of
medieval colour terminology for desirable cloth. Two address social
significance: the practice of seizing clothing from debtors in
fourteenth-century Lucca, and the transformation of the wardrobe of
Margaret Tudor, daughter of King Henry VII, upon her marriage to
the king of Scotland. Two delve into artistic symbolism: a
consideration of female headdresses carved at St Frideswide's
Priory in Oxford, and a discussion of how Anglo-Saxon artists used
soft furnishings to echo emotional aspects of narratives.
Meanwhile, in an exercise in historiography, there is an
examination of the life of Mrs. A.G.I. Christie, author of the
landmark Medieval English Embroidery. ROBIN NETHERTON is a
professional editor and a researcher/lecturer on the interpretation
of medieval European dress; GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor of
Anglo-Saxon Culture at the University of Manchester. Contributors:
Michelle L. Beer, Elizabeth Coatsworth, Valija Evalds, Christine
Meek, Maureen C. Miller, Christopher J. Monk, Lisa Monnas, Rebecca
Woodward Wendelken
The best new research on medieval clothing and textiles, drawing
from a range of disciplines and with a special focus on
reconstruction. The third volume of this pioneering series explores
the manufacture and trade of textiles and their practical,
fashionable, and symbolic uses. Papers include in-depth studies and
cross-genre scholarship representing such fields associal history,
economics, art history, archaeology and literature, as well as the
reconstruction of textile-making techniques. They range over
England, Flanders, France, Germany, and Spain from the seventh to
the sixteenth centuries, and address such topics as soft
furnishings, ecclesiastical vestments, the economics of the wool
trade, the making and use of narrow wares, symbolic reference to
courtly dress in a religious text, and aristocratic
children'sclothing. Also included are reviews of recent books on
dress and textile topics. ROBIN NETHERTON is a professional editor
and a researcher/lecturer on Western European dress, specializing
in the depiction and interpretation of clothing by artists and
historians. GALE R. OWEN-CROCKER is Professor of Anglo-Saxon
Culture at The University of Manchester and author of Dress in
Anglo-Saxon England; she is the Director of an ARHC-fundedproject
on cloth and clothing terminology in medieval Britain.
CONTRIBUTORS: ELIZABETH COATSWORTH, SARAH LARRATT KEEFER, SUSAN
LEIBACHER WARD, JOHN H. MUNRO, JOHN OLDLAN, LESLEY K. TWOMEY,
ELIZABETH BENNS, LOIS SWALES, HEATHER BLATT, MELANIE SCHUESSLER
Studies and editions of Anglo-Saxon apocryphal materials, filling a
gap in literature available on the boundaries between apocryphal
and orthodox in the period. Apocrypha and apocryphal traditions in
Anglo-Saxon England have been often referred to but little studied.
This collection fills a gap in the study of pre-Conquest England by
considering what were the boundaries between apocryphaland orthodox
in the period and what uses the Anglo-Saxons made of apocryphal
materials. The contributors include some of the most well-known and
respected scholars in the field. The introduction - written by
Frederick M. Biggs, one of the principal editors of Sources of
Anglo-Saxon Literary Culture - expertly situates the essays within
the field of apocrypha studies. The essays themselves cover a broad
range of topics: both vernacular and Latin texts, those available
in Anglo-Saxon England and those actually written there, and the
uses of apocrypha in art as well as literature. Additionally, the
book includes a number of completely new editions of apocryphal
texts which were previously unpublished or difficult to access. By
presenting these new texts along with the accompanying range of
essays, the collection aims to retrieve these apocryphal traditions
from the margins of scholarship and restore tothem some of the
importance they held for the Anglo-Saxons. Contributors: DANIEL
ANLEZARK, FREDERICK M. BIGGS, ELIZABETH COATSWORTH, THOMAS N. HALL,
JOYCE HILL, CATHERINE KARKOV, PATRIZIA LENDINARA, AIDEEN O'LEARY,
CHARLES D. WRIGHT.
This book, despite its title is much more than just a bibliography.
Conceived as part of the Manchester Medieval Textiles Project it
aims to make accessible the full range of resources available to
those wishing to study early medieval textiles in Britain. (A
second volume covering the later Middle Ages will follow). The
annotations to the bibliography are clear and extensive, the
authors do their best to tell you exactly what you will find in
each book. The volume also contains a lengthy introduction and
glossary which provide an excellent starting point for the study of
medieval textiles.
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