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Shortlisted for the Millia Davenport Publication Award.
Experimental Fashion traces the proliferation of the grotesque and
carnivalesque within contemporary fashion and the close relation
between fashion and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat
dress to Leigh Bowery's performance style. The book examines the
designers and performance artists at the turn of the 21st century
whose work challenges established codes of what represents the
fashionable body. These innovative people, the book argues, make
their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humour and
inversion. It explores the experimental work of modern designers
such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo and
fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure Leigh Bowery.
It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion
through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.
This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field
that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to
redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion
alongside other more well-established areas of criticism. Exploring
the history of fashion criticism in the English language, this
essential work takes readers from the writing published in
avant-garde modernist magazines at the beginning of the twentieth
century to the fashion criticism of Robin Givhan—the first
fashion critic to win a Pulitzer Prize—and of Judith Thurman, a
National Book Award winner. It covers the shift in newspapers from
the so-called “women’s pages” to the contemporary style
sections, while unearthing the work of cultural critics and writers
on fashion including Susan Sontag and Eve Babitz (Vogue), Bebe
Moore Campbell (Ebony), Angela Carter (New Statesman) and Hilton
Als (New Yorker). Examining the gender dynamics of the field and
its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism
demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical
analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in
an increasingly visual and digital world. The book argues that
fashion criticism occupied a central role in negotiating shifting
gender roles as well as shifting understandings of race. Bringing
together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and
writings, from Oscar Wilde’s editorials in The Woman’s World to
the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today’s
proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource
for students of fashion studies, media and journalism.
This is the first anthology of fashion criticism, a growing field
that has been too long overlooked. Fashion Criticism aims to
redress the balance, claiming a place for writing on fashion
alongside other more well-established areas of criticism. Exploring
the history of fashion criticism in the English language, this
essential work takes readers from the writing published in
avant-garde modernist magazines at the beginning of the twentieth
century to the fashion criticism of Robin Givhan—the first
fashion critic to win a Pulitzer Prize—and of Judith Thurman, a
National Book Award winner. It covers the shift in newspapers from
the so-called “women’s pages” to the contemporary style
sections, while unearthing the work of cultural critics and writers
on fashion including Susan Sontag and Eve Babitz (Vogue), Bebe
Moore Campbell (Ebony), Angela Carter (New Statesman) and Hilton
Als (New Yorker). Examining the gender dynamics of the field and
its historical association with the feminine, Fashion Criticism
demonstrates how fashion has gained ground as a subject of critical
analysis, capitalizing on the centrality of dress and clothing in
an increasingly visual and digital world. The book argues that
fashion criticism occupied a central role in negotiating shifting
gender roles as well as shifting understandings of race. Bringing
together two centuries of previously uncollected articles and
writings, from Oscar Wilde’s editorials in The Woman’s World to
the ground-breaking fashion journalism of the 1980s and today’s
proliferation of fashion bloggers, it will be an essential resource
for students of fashion studies, media and journalism.
Shortlisted for the Millia Davenport Publication Award Experimental
Fashion traces the proliferation of the grotesque and carnivalesque
within contemporary fashion and the close relation between fashion
and performance art, from Lady Gaga's raw meat dress to Leigh
Bowery's performance style. The book examines the designers and
performance artists at the turn of the twenty-first century whose
work challenges established codes of what represents the
fashionable body. These innovative people, the book argues, make
their challenges through dynamic strategies of parody, humour and
inversion. It explores the experimental work of modern designers
such as Georgina Godley, Bernhard Willhelm, Rei Kawakubo and
fashion designer, performance artist, and club figure Leigh Bowery.
It also discusses the increased centrality of experimental fashion
through the pop phenomenon, Lady Gaga.
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