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Paris a Table: 1846 is the first English translation of a seminal
book in the literature of nineteenth-century gastronomy, a work
described by Le Monde as "the richest view of Balzac's time seen
from the table." It was written by the journalist Eugene Briffault,
well-known in his day as a theater critic and chronicler of
contemporary Paris, but also as a bon-vivant, celebrated for his
ability to quaff a magnum of champagne from a bell jar in a single
draft and well-qualified to write authoritatively about the
culinary culture of Paris. Focusing on the manners, customs, and
"moeurs" of the dining scene, the author takes the reader from the
opulence of a dinner at the Rothschilds through every social
stratum down to the laborer eating on the streets. He surveys the
restaurants of the previous generation and his own-from the most
elegant to the lowest dive-along with the eating habits of the
bourgeoisie, the importance and variety of banquets, the
institutional meal, and even the plight of "people who do not
dine." Briffault was also a fine storyteller, and the book is a
compendium of culinary anecdotes, from the tantrums of a king
deprived of his spinach to the tragedy of "the friendliest pig that
was ever seen." The edition also includes the humorous drawings of
the caricaturist Bertall, artwork that cleverly reinforces the
witty and ironic tone that pervades the text. Along with an
introduction -which provides the first modern biography of the
author and analyses the place of Paris a Table in the literary
culture of the time-the text is copiously annotated, acquainting
readers with the events and characters that appear in the narrative
and providing an entryway to the author's Paris, the city Walter
Benjamin characterized as "the capital of the nineteenth century."
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