PREFACE THE purpose of this book is to give such instruction in dressmaking in the broadest meaning of the term- as to make a text-book for both teacher and student in colleges and schools above the elementary where sewing or dressmaking is taught. The Introduction considers the fundamental meaning of dressmaking. It traces the development of the art of dressmaking from its simple beginnings to its present elaborate expression from the time when clothing was represented by painting and tattooing to the present day, when numerous coverings conform to the various require- ments of custom, use, and fashion. Part I presents the development of costume from the standpoint of history and design. This material is neces- sarily given in an abbreviated form and serves merely as a suggestive outline for further study and research. Part II considers Textiles, the materials which are used in dressmaking, and discusses the economic value of vari- ous fibres and fabrics. The general processes of textile manufacture are given to serve as a basis for consideration of the cost and wearing qualities of any fabric. A few suggestions are included for physical tests for fabrics such tests as do not require a knowledge of chemistry and are possible in the schoolroom or at home. Part III treats of design and technique in patternmaking and dressmaking. It presents various methottsT for cutting, fitting, and finishing a garment to meet the demands of art and of convention as affected by fashion-. A knowledge of all fundamental stitches and seams is pre- supposed and no instruction in elementary sewing cluded. Directions are given, however, for any sewing is in- which pertains strictly to dressmaking. In Part II, Textiles, the author is greatly indebted to the generous co-operation of Mr. Edgar H. Barker, chief of the Departments of Woolen and Worsted Yarns of the Lowell Textile School, not only for his valuable con- structive criticism, but also for many opportunities for technical verification which his wide experience and vital interest in the subject have made possible. In Part III, Dressmaking, Miss Ruth Wilmot, of Teachers College, has rendered helpful criticism and general suggestions in the chapters dealing with the technique of dressmaking and the problem of design. To Miss Bessie White, of Teachers College, the author is also gratefully indebted for the outline of the chapter on Embroidery. For advice in the plan, scope, and organization of ma- terial the author wishes to express her thanks to Doctor Frederick Henry Sykes, president of the Connecticut College for Women, at whose suggestion the book was first undertaken and whose kindly interest has continued throughout Lastly, she wishes to record her thanks to Miss Edna its construction. Dingwall, through whose untiring and sympathetic as- sistance the labor of the completion of the book has been appreciably lightened. INTRODUCTION . CHAPTER CONTENTS PAGE vii PART ONE THE HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT OF COSTUME I. COSTUME i PART TWO TEXTILES II. TEXTILE MANUFACTURE 48 III. TEXTILE ECONOMICS 120 PART THREE DRESSMAKING IV. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS . . . 155 V. DRAFTING AND PATTERN-MAKING 172 VI. THE USE OF COMMERCIAL PATTERNS 239 VII. PATTERN-DESIGNING AND DRAPING 250 VIII. WAISTS .313 IX. SKIRTS 373 X...

PREFACE THE purpose of this book is to give such instruction in dressmaking in the broadest meaning of the term- as to make a text-book for both teacher and student in colleges and schools above the elementary where sewing or dressmaking is taught. The Introduction considers the fundamental meaning of dressmaking. It traces the development of the art of dressmaking from its simple beginnings to its present elaborate expression from the time when clothing was represented by painting and tattooing to the present day, when numerous coverings conform to the various require- ments of custom, use, and fashion. Part I presents the development of costume from the standpoint of history and design. This material is neces- sarily given in an abbreviated form and serves merely as a suggestive outline for further study and research. Part II considers Textiles, the materials which are used in dressmaking, and discusses the economic value of vari- ous fibres and fabrics. The general processes of textile manufacture are given to serve as a basis for consideration of the cost and wearing qualities of any fabric. A few suggestions are included for physical tests for fabrics such tests as do not require a knowledge of chemistry and are possible in the schoolroom or at home. Part III treats of design and technique in patternmaking and dressmaking. It presents various methottsT for cutting, fitting, and finishing a garment to meet the demands of art and of convention as affected by fashion-. A knowledge of all fundamental stitches and seams is pre- supposed and no instruction in elementary sewing cluded. Directions are given, however, for any sewing is in- which pertains strictly to dressmaking. In Part II, Textiles, the author is greatly indebted to the generous co-operation of Mr. Edgar H. Barker, chief of the Departments of Woolen and Worsted Yarns of the Lowell Textile School, not only for his valuable con- structive criticism, but also for many opportunities for technical verification which his wide experience and vital interest in the subject have made possible. In Part III, Dressmaking, Miss Ruth Wilmot, of Teachers College, has rendered helpful criticism and general suggestions in the chapters dealing with the technique of dressmaking and the problem of design. To Miss Bessie White, of Teachers College, the author is also gratefully indebted for the outline of the chapter on Embroidery. For advice in the plan, scope, and organization of ma- terial the author wishes to express her thanks to Doctor Frederick Henry Sykes, president of the Connecticut College for Women, at whose suggestion the book was first undertaken and whose kindly interest has continued throughout Lastly, she wishes to record her thanks to Miss Edna its construction. Dingwall, through whose untiring and sympathetic as- sistance the labor of the completion of the book has been appreciably lightened. INTRODUCTION . CHAPTER CONTENTS PAGE vii PART ONE THE HISTORIC DEVELOPMENT OF COSTUME I. COSTUME i PART TWO TEXTILES II. TEXTILE MANUFACTURE 48 III. TEXTILE ECONOMICS 120 PART THREE DRESSMAKING IV. GENERAL SUGGESTIONS AND INSTRUCTIONS . . . 155 V. DRAFTING AND PATTERN-MAKING 172 VI. THE USE OF COMMERCIAL PATTERNS 239 VII. PATTERN-DESIGNING AND DRAPING 250 VIII. WAISTS .313 IX. SKIRTS 373 X...