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The intersection of women's fashion and big business in the US has
always been a compelling study across social strata. The
ready-to-wear apparel industry thrives on creating a presumably
original design that is then interpreted into copies. Called design
piracy by some and the knock-off process by most in the industry,
copying fashion designs is a firmly embedded business strategy that
predates even the advent of women's ready-to-wear in the late
nineteenth century. Historically, some industry organizations and
individual designers accepted and supported copying as crucial to
the transmission of fashion; others strove to prevent the practice,
arguing harms ranging from lost profits to the abuse of labor.
Threaded through the complicated and fascinating history of US
ready-towear fashion are more than eighty attempts to legislate for
design protection, and countless efforts to stymie piracy through
patents, trademarking, or industry self-regulation. The authors
analyze legal and apparel industry documents; governmental reports;
and their own primary research conducted in museums, archives, and
special collections to shed light on arguments both for and against
design piracy. A main focus is the Fashion Originators Guild of
America (FOGA), one of the most successful industry organizations
to attempt design protection. Knock It Off puts into perspective
the conflicting interests that have always set fashion design apart
from other creative works and continue to make the industry an
endlessly perplexing and risky business.
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