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There is no greater or more powerful or more pure human rapport
with the elements than that experienced by a surfer dancing with
the ocean. In "Dancing the Wave, Jean-Etienne Poirier brings alive
the world of surfing by offering historical, anthropological, and
cultural perspectives on this increasingly popular sport. By
recounting tales of his own surfing adventures, he opens the door
to this world beyond the summer sun and simple pleasures of the
ride, inviting readers to reflect upon the true place of human
beings in the universe.
This book is for all board riders, for all those who are touched by
the forces of the ocean, and for all those who wish to understand
the boldness of surfers, who join power and elegance in that
harmonious dance with the sinuous movement of the wave.
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Gloria
Sam Smith
CD
R238
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Discovery Miles 1 950
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