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Fringing the Black Sea are a kaleidoscope of countries, some
centuries old and others emerging only after the collapse of the
Soviet Union. Through the stories of the people he meets there,
Jens Muhling seeks to paint a picture of this cauldron of cultures
and to understand the present against a backdrop of change
stretching back to the arrival of Ancient Greek settlers and
beyond. A fluent Russian speaker with a knack for gaining the trust
of those he meets, Muhling's cast of characters, as diverse as the
stories he hears, is ready to tell him their complex,
contradictory, often fantastical tales, full of grief and legend.
He meets descendants of the so-called Pontic Greeks, whom Stalin
deported to Central Asia and who have now returned; Circassians,
known from Tolstoy's Caucasus stories, who fled to Syria a century
ago and whose great-great-grandchildren, now displaced, have
returned to Abkhazia; and members of ethnic minorities: the
Georgian Mingrelians, Turkish Lazis, or Bulgarian Muslims expelled
to Turkey in the summer of 1989. Not to mention the molluscs and
other species that have unsettled the delicate ecological balance
of this unique body of water. Nowhere does the uneasy alliance of
tradition and modernity seem starker, and there is no better writer
to capture the diverse humanity of those who live there.
'Will someone pay for the spilled blood? No. Nobody.' Mikhail
Bulgakov wrote these words in Kiev during the turmoil of the
Russian Civil War. Since then Ukrainian borders have shifted
constantly and its people have suffered numerous military foreign
interventions that have left them with nothing. As a state, Ukraine
exists only since 1991 and what it was before is controversial
among its people as well as its European neighbours. Writing in a
simple and vivid way, Jens Muhling narrates his encounters with
nationalists and old Communists, Crimean Tatars and Cossacks,
smugglers, archaeologists and soldiers, all of whose views could
hardly be more different. Black Earth connects all these stories to
convey an unconventional and unfiltered view of Ukraine - a country
at the crossroads of Europe and Asia and the centre of countless
conflicts of opinion.
Ten years ago journalist Jens Muhling met Juri, a Russian
television producer whose job it was to sell stories to TV stations
in Germany but who always maintained that 'The true stories are
more unbelievable than anything I could invent.' Ever since, Jens
Muhling has been travelling through Russia in search of stories
that appear too unbelievable to be true: a hermit from the Taiga
who only recently found out that there was a world beyond the
woods, a priest who ventures into the exclusion zone around
Chernobyl to preach to those that stubbornly remain there, and many
more. Jens Muhling shows us a country whose customs,
contradictions, absurdities and attractions are still largely
unknown beyond its borders.
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