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All over the world, people get dressed, mostly for the same
reasons. Why, then, do we look so different from each other? The
answers lie in the constellations of factors that contribute to the
human condition, from climate to conformity, gender expression to
race and ethnicity. Beginning with the body as the organizing
principle around which to study dress, this 50th anniversary
edition of The Visible Self makes sense of humans as biological,
social, and aesthetic creatures based on cross-disciplinary
concepts and examples. It explores the daily act of dress in
cultures around the world, using the word “dress” to describe
the wide variety of behaviors connected to the act of adorning our
bodies—or not—through the use of clothing, modifications,
and/or supplements. Political economies are addressed holistically
to understand the global world through contemporary topics such as
racism and how dress can be used to sustain or rebel against
dominant structures. With current examples and relevant readings in
every chapter, the authors convey how dress can achieve standards
of appearance and social ideals, relate to individuality and
conformity in fashion, and communicate identity and character in
the arts. Exploring the global mash-up of fashion, dress, culture,
production, and sustainability—including life in a post-pandemic
world—The Visible Self offers a powerful understanding of the way
we look and how we look at others. New to this Edition: - Focus on
the body as the organizing principle in the study of dress
including additional insight on fashion and using this concept to
define the target customer - Investigation of current issues such
as race and the post-pandemic world - Updated readings, at the end
of each chapter, with discussion questions that directly connect
chapter concepts to reading content - Activities that apply chapter
concepts to design, product development, merchandising, and
everyday life STUDIO Features Include: - Links to third party video
clips to help visualize how dress is used to identify the self -
Self-assessment quizzes to test yourself on what you have just read
- Flashcards of key terms and concepts covered in the book
Instructor Resources - Instructor’s Guide to help incorporate the
text into your classroom - Test Bank to highly key concepts and
test student comprehension on those concepts - PowerPoint Slides
for every chapter
Global Trade and Cultural Authentication, edited by Joanne Eicher,
showcases the complexity and enduring aesthetic and ingenuity of
Kalabari artisans. The Kalabari people, most of whom make their
homes in the eastern Niger Delta region of western Africa, are
renowned for the artistry in working with globally imported
textiles and dress for centuries. The 22 essays in this edited
volume feature the work of leading Nigerian and American scholars
and offer an in-depth, nuanced understanding of Kalabari textiles,
aesthetics, and engagement with past and present global trade
networks. Using dress and textiles as a lens, Global Trade and
Cultural Authentication explores the Kalabari people's
centuries-long role in the global trade arena. Their economic
interconnectedness demonstrates that Africa was never a "dark
continent" but, rather, critically involved in a global trade built
around Kalabari resourcefulness and imagination.
Global Trade and Cultural Authentication, edited by Joanne Eicher,
showcases the complexity and enduring aesthetic and ingenuity of
Kalabari artisans. The Kalabari people, most of whom make their
homes in the eastern Niger Delta region of western Africa, are
renowned for the artistry in working with globally imported
textiles and dress for centuries. The 22 essays in this edited
volume feature the work of leading Nigerian and American scholars
and offer an in-depth, nuanced understanding of Kalabari textiles,
aesthetics, and engagement with past and present global trade
networks. Using dress and textiles as a lens, Global Trade and
Cultural Authentication explores the Kalabari people's
centuries-long role in the global trade arena. Their economic
interconnectedness demonstrates that Africa was never a "dark
continent" but, rather, critically involved in a global trade built
around Kalabari resourcefulness and imagination.
Anthropologists have examined how diverse human populations modify
and dress their bodies since the earliest days of the discipline.
The Anthropology of Dress and Fashion: A Reader is the first
authoritative anthology of the seminal writings of anthropologists
studying clothing and fashion. From classic ethnographies of dress
to cutting-edge contemporary research tracing the global
circulation of clothing today, this comprehensive volume maps out
this vibrant field of study's shifting preoccupations, theoretical
innovations, and traditional and experimental methodologies.
Comprised of over 40 curated extracts from the work of leading
international scholars from Jonathan Friedman to Katherine Frank,
the reader is divided into themed sections, each with an
introduction and guide to further reading. With each extract
introduced and contextualised, the reader will be an essential
resource for students and scholars of fashion studies, social and
cultural anthropology, material culture, sociology and related
fields.
East Asia covers an area that is home to a quarter of the world's
population. This volume provides a comprehensive overview of the
region, followed by separate sections on China, Korea, and Japan.
The section on China covers the Han people, China's ethnic
majority, as well as most of China's fifty-five minority groups.
Festive dress, China's reputation for distinctive hairstyling, and
a wide range of adornments linked to ancient beliefs and traditions
are all covered. Overviews of Tibet, Mongolia, and Taiwan are
included as well. Traditional and modern aspects of Korean dress
are explored in depth, and the importance of the textile and
garment industries is highlighted. Street and youth fashion, the
history of the kimono, dress and masks for Noh and Kabuki
performances, and the work of textile artists who are masters of
traditional craft are all covered in the section on Japan.
Historical backgrounds and accounts of ancient archaeological
evidence are also provided. Accompanied by photographs supplying
stunning pictorial evidence, East Asia offers a compelling overview
of a land where age-old tradition coexists with bustling,
technologically advanced modern states.
Covering an area of spectacularly diverse topography and climate,
from arid Mexican deserts to tropical islands and from Amazonian
rainforests to the high Andes, this volume explores the dress
traditions of the many peoples inhabiting Latin America and the
Caribbean. The style and glamour of Latin American cultural icons
such as Eva Per n, Frida Kahlo, and Carmen Miranda have long
fascinated the world, and Caribbean carnival is internationally
renowned. But this region also has an extraordinarily rich legacy
dating back to ancient cultures, such as the Aztecs, Incas, and
Maya, as well as unique records in the form of pictogram books
indicating the early use of textiles and clothing types. In this
important reference work, these topics, as well as the lasting
impact of Spanish and Portuguese colonial activity, are introduced
and contextualized to show how modern societies that are fully
participating in globalized commerce have developed in this region.
With over 250 images, Latin America and the Caribbean is an
invaluable reference tool and an essential starting point for
anyone wishing to learn about the importance of dress to this
vibrant region.
From the Baltic to the Balkans, and from Siberia to the Caucasus,
the lands covered in this volume contain a multitude of cultures
with rich and distinctive dress and textile traditions. However,
tradition has not been the only factor shaping dress in the region.
The contrast between ethnic and urban dress provides a revealing
lens through which to consider individual and cultural identities
throughout. Attitudes toward dress have also been shaped by
socialism and its demise, as the former "Eastern bloc" states have
undergone massive upheaval. This landmark volume is the first major
reference work to provide a comprehensive overview of dress within
this vast and complex region. Broad surveys of individual countries
are supplemented with case studies focusing more narrowly on
people, practices, and objects to provide both range and depth. The
long tradition of exquisite embroidery is highlighted. The volume
also has articles on the influence of the Ottoman Empire on this
part of Europe, a discussion of Roma dress, and a snapshot on
Balkan bandits. A pioneering, major reference work, East Europe,
Russia, and the Caucasus also places dress within the political and
sociocultural contexts that have shaped people and nations in this
region.
Although it can be difficult to think of fashion in anything other
than a contemporary context, as a concept it is hardly new. Costume
historians trace the birth of fashion back to the thirteenth
century and writings on fashion date back as early as the sixteenth
century when Michel de Montaigne pondered its origins, thereby
setting in motion a chain of inquiry that has continued to intrigue
writers for centuries. This key text reprints classic fashion
writings, all of which have had a profound if perhaps untrumpeted
impact on our understanding and approach to modern day dress - from
the psychology of clothes through to collective fashion trends. Why
do we wear clothes? What do they say about our self-awareness and
body image? How can we 'fashion' new identities through what we
wear? Seminal fashion statements by Montaigne, William Hazlitt,
Herbert Spencer, Thorstein B. Veblen, Adam Smith, Herbert Blumer,
and Georg Simmel answer these questions and many more. Full of
vital fashion treasures that have often been ignored, this book
fills a major gap in the history of the discipline and will serve
as an essential teaching text for years to come.
Beads have been used since antiquity, not only to dress the body,
but as measures of value in economic and ritual exchanges. Their
popularity has never waned, and in recent years their trade has
enjoyed a world-wide revival. Beads have deep and multiple
meanings: in many cultures, together with garments, they reflect
age, gender and social status, and are a vehicle through which
people store, exchange and transmit wealth.
This absorbing book analyzes techniques and gendered aspects of the
making of beads, as well as their role in trade and body adornment,
in a wide range of societies, from the ancient Mediterranean to
Renaissance Venice and present-day Southern Africa and West Africa,
where they have become a symbol of cultural survival and identity.
Anyone interested in material culture, anthropology, art history,
and gender studies will find that this book provides fascinating
insights into attitudes toward the body and its dress as well as
systems of social classification.
Dress is one of the most significant markers of gender identity,
yet is only rarely explored in depth. This volume addresses the
relationship between gender and dress, opening up fascinating
aspects by covering a great variety of ethnographic areas reaching
from Asia, Europe and Africa to North and South America. The time
span is equally wide-ranging and offers present-day material as
well as studies based on historical data.
Anthropologists have examined how diverse human populations modify
and dress their bodies since the earliest days of the discipline.
The Anthropology of Dress and Fashion: A Reader is the first
authoritative anthology of the seminal writings of anthropologists
studying clothing and fashion. From classic ethnographies of dress
to cutting-edge contemporary research tracing the global
circulation of clothing today, this comprehensive volume maps out
this vibrant field of study's shifting preoccupations, theoretical
innovations, and traditional and experimental methodologies.
Comprised of over 40 curated extracts from the work of leading
international scholars from Jonathan Friedman to Katherine Frank,
the reader is divided into themed sections, each with an
introduction and guide to further reading. With each extract
introduced and contextualised, the reader will be an essential
resource for students and scholars of fashion studies, social and
cultural anthropology, material culture, sociology and related
fields.
The clothes we wear tell stories about us and are often imbued with
cultural meanings specific to our ethnic heritage. This concise
A-to-Z encyclopedia explores 150 different and distinct items of
ethnic dress, their history, and their cultural significance within
the United States. The clothing artifacts documented here have been
or are now regularly worn by Americans as everyday clothing,
fashion, ethnic or religious identifiers, or style statements. They
embody the cultural history of the United States and its peoples,
from Native Americans, white Anglo colonists, and forcibly
relocated black slaves to the influx of immigrants from around the
world. Entries consider how dress items may serve as symbolic
linkages to home country and family or worn as visible forms of
opposition to dominant cultural norms. Taken together, they offer
insight into the ethnic-based core ideologies, myths, and cultural
codes that have played a role in the formation and continued story
of the United States."
Although it can be difficult to think of fashion in anything other
than a contemporary context, as a concept it is hardly new. Costume
historians trace the birth of fashion back to the thirteenth
century and writings on fashion date back as early as the sixteenth
century when Michel de Montaigne pondered its origins, thereby
setting in motion a chain of inquiry that has continued to intrigue
writers for centuries. This key text reprints classic fashion
writings, all of which have had a profound if perhaps untrumpeted
impact on our understanding and approach to modern day dress - from
the psychology of clothes through to collective fashion trends. Why
do we wear clothes? What do they say about our self-awareness and
body image? How can we 'fashion' new identities through what we
wear? Seminal fashion statements by Montaigne, William Hazlitt,
Herbert Spencer, Thorstein B. Veblen, Adam Smith, Herbert Blumer,
and Georg Simmel answer these questions and many more. Full of
vital fashion treasures that have often been ignored, this book
fills a major gap in the history of the discipline and will serve
as an essential teaching text for years to come.
With topics ranging from African-American women's headwraps to
beauty pageants in Swaziland and the recent royal wedding in Japan,
this book contributes a new slant to the literature on ethnicity by
focusing on the frequently noticed but less often analyzed
phenomenon of dress. Dress, along with language, culinary and
religious traditions, serves both to unite and separate people from
each other. The authors - ethnographers, folklorists and textile
scholars - present case studies from around the world to illustrate
their different theoretical frameworks and assumptions. In
considering how the body is modified and supplemented, they discuss
not only garments and accessories, but also hairstyles and
cosmetics. This book should interest anyone wishing to understand
and explore ethnicity through this fascinating and effective means
of communication.
Beads have been used since antiquity, not only to dress the body,
but as measures of value in economic and ritual exchanges. Their
popularity has never waned, and in recent years their trade has
enjoyed a world-wide revival. Beads have deep and multiple
meanings: in many cultures, together with garments, they reflect
age, gender and social status, and are a vehicle through which
people store, exchange and transmit wealth.
This absorbing book analyzes techniques and gendered aspects of the
making of beads, as well as their role in trade and body adornment,
in a wide range of societies, from the ancient Mediterranean to
Renaissance Venice and present-day Southern Africa and West Africa,
where they have become a symbol of cultural survival and identity.
Anyone interested in material culture, anthropology, art history,
and gender studies will find that this book provides fascinating
insights into attitudes toward the body and its dress as well as
systems of social classification.
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