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Dolman Travel Book of the Year 2012 Between the Orinoco and the
Amazon lies a fabulous forested land, barely explored. Much of
Guiana seldom sees sunlight, and new species are often tumbling out
of the dark trees. Shunned by the conquistadors, it was left to
others to carve into colonies. Guyana, Suriname and Guyane
Francaise are what remain of their contest, and the 400 years of
struggle that followed. Now, award-winning author John Gimlette
sets off along this coast, gathering up its astonishing story. His
journey takes him deep into the jungle, from the hideouts of
runaway slaves to penal colonies, outlandish forts, remote
Amerindian villages, a 'Little Paris' and a space port. He meets
rebels, outlaws and sorcerers; follows the trail of a vicious
Georgian revolt, and ponders a love-affair that changed the face of
slavery. Here too is Jonestown, where, in 1978, over 900 Americans,
members of Reverend Jones's cult, committed suicide. The last
traces are almost gone now, as the forest closes in. Beautiful,
bizarre and occasionally brutal, this is one of the great forgotten
corners of the Earth: the Wild Coast.
A journey - both historical and contemporary - among the
fantastical landscapes, beguiling creatures and isolated tribes of
the world's fourth island: Madagascar. An improbable world beckons.
We think we know Madagascar but it's too big, too eccentric, and
too impenetrable to be truly understood. If it was stretched out
across Europe, the islands would reach from London to Algiers, and
yet its road network is barely bigger than tiny Jamaica's. There is
no evidence of any human life until about 10,000 years ago, and,
when eventually people settled, it was migrants from Borneo - 3,700
miles away - who came out on top. As well as visiting every corner
of Madagascar, John Gimlette journeys deep into its past in order
to better understand how Madagascar became what it is today. Along
the way, he meets politicians, sorcerors, gem prospectors,
militiamen, rioters, lepers and the descendants of
seventeenth-century pirates.
A gripping account of an under-reported island' Spectator, Book of
the Year '[A] brilliant new book about an island that has a
geography from heaven and a history from hell' Daily Telegraph 'A
brilliant work of travel, history and psychological insight . . .
astute and sympathetic . . . very funny' Wall Street Journal
Everyone has wanted a piece of paradise John Gimlette - winner of
the Dolman Prize and the Shiva Naipaul Prize for Travel Writing -
is the kind of traveller you'd want by your side. Whether hacking a
centuries-old path through the jungle, interrogating the surviving
members of the Tamil Tigers or observing the stranger social mores
of Colombo's city life, he brings his own unique insight to the
page: a treasure-chest of research and a gift for wry amusement.
Through him, Sri Lanka - all at once dazzling, strange, conflicted
and beautiful - comes to life as never before.
Guyana, Suriname, and French Guiana are among the least-known
places in South America: nine hundred miles of muddy coastline
giving way to a forest so dense that even today there are virtually
no roads through it; a string of rickety coastal towns situated
between the mouths of the Orinoco and Amazon Rivers, where living
is so difficult that as many Guianese live abroad as in their
homelands; an interior of watery, green anarchy where border
disputes are often based on ancient Elizabethan maps, where flora
and fauna are still being discovered, where thousands of rivers
remain mostly impassable. And under the lens of John
Gimlette--brilliantly offbeat, irreverent, and canny--these three
small countries are among the most wildly intriguing places on
earth.
On an expedition that will last three months, he takes us deep into
a remarkable world of swamp and jungle, from the hideouts of
runaway slaves to the vegetation-strangled remnants of penal
colonies and forts, from "Little Paris" to a settlement built
around a satellite launch pad. He recounts the complicated, often
surprisingly bloody, history of the region--including the infamous
1978 cult suicide at Jonestown--and introduces us to its
inhabitants: from the world's largest ants to fluorescent purple
frogs to head-crushing jaguars; from indigenous tribes who still
live by sorcery to descendants of African slaves, Dutch conquerors,
Hmong refugees, Irish adventurers, and Scottish outlaws; from
high-tech pirates to hapless pioneers for whom this stunning,
strangely beautiful world ("a sort of X-rated Garden of Eden") has
become home by choice or by force.
In "Wild Coast, "John Gimlette guides us through a fabulously
entertaining, eye-opening--and sometimes jaw-dropping--journey.
An extraordinary journey across the magnificent, delinquent coast
of Newfoundland and Labrador.
John Gimlette's journey across this harsh and awesome landscape,
the eastern extreme of the Americas, broadly mirrors that of Dr
Eliot Curwen, his great-grandfather, who spent a summer there as a
doctor in 1893, and who was witness to some of the most beautiful
ice and cruelest poverty in the British Empire. Using Curwen's
extraordinarily frank journal, John Gimlette revisits the places
his great-grandfather encountered and along the way explores his
own links with this harsh, often brutal, land.
At the heart of the book however, are the "outporters," the
present-day inhabitants of these shores. Descended from last-hope
Irishmen, outlaws, navy deserters and fishermen from Jersey and
Dorset, these outporters are a warm, salty, witty and exuberant
breed. They often speak with the accent and idioms of the original
colonists, sometimes Shakespearean, sometimes just plain
impenetrable. Theirs is a bizarre story; of houses (or "saltboxes")
that can be dragged across land or floated over the sea; of eating
habits inherited from seventeenth-century sailors (salt beef, rum
pease-pudding and molasses; ) of Labradorians sealed in ice from
October to June; of fishing villages that produced a diva to sing
with Verdi; and of their own illicit, impromptu dramatics, the
Mummers.
This part-history-part-travelogue exploration of Newfoundland and
Labrador's coast and culture by a well-established travel writer is
a glorious read to be enjoyed by both armchair tourist, and anyone
contemplating a visit to Canada's far-eastern shores.
Haven to Nazis, smugglers' paradise, home to some of the earth's
oddest wildlife and most baroquely awful dictatorships, Paraguay is
a nation waiting for the right chronicler. In John Gimlette, at
last it has one. With an adventurer's sang-froid, a historian's
erudition, and a sense of irony so keen you could cut a finger on
it, Gimlette celebrates the beauty, horror and-yes-charm of South
America's obscure and remote "island surrounded by land."
He takes readers from genteel drawing rooms in Asuncion-where
ladies still gossip about the nineteenth-century Irish adventuress
who became Paraguay's Empress to the "Green Hell" of the Chaco, a
vast, inhospitable tract populated by aging Mennonites and
discouraged Indians. Replete with eccentrics and scoundrels,
ecologically minded cannibals and utopians from every corner of the
earth, At the Tomb of the Inflatable Pig" "is a madly entertaining
book.
Paraguay - the name conjures up everything most exotic and extreme
in South America. It's a place of hellish jungles, dictators,
fraudsters and Nazis, utopian experiments, missionaries and lurid
coups. It's not a place for the timid tourist. It doesn't even have
its own guidebook. But Paraguay, as revealed in this outstanding
new travel book, is among the most beautiful and captivating
countries in the world. The beguiling Paraguayans, despised and
feared by their neighbours, are unfathomable. They adore Diana,
Princess of Wales, as if she were still alive and hundreds
volunteered to fight for Britain in the Falklands War. Their
politics are Byzantine but when the Vice-President is murdered,
they call in Scotland Yard. Discover more about the unique
traditions of South American culture through this fascinating piece
of travel journalism.
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