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Food is at the center of national debates about how Americans live
and the future of the planet. Not everyone agrees about how to
reform our relationship to food, but one suggestion rises above the
din: We need to get back in the kitchen. Amid concerns about rising
rates of obesity and diabetes, unpronounceable ingredients, and the
environmental footprint of industrial agriculture, food reformers
implore parents to slow down, cook from scratch, and gather around
the dinner table. Making food a priority, they argue, will lead to
happier and healthier families. But is it really that simple? In
this riveting and beautifully-written book, Sarah Bowen, Joslyn
Brenton, and Sinikka Elliott take us into the kitchens of nine
women to tell the complicated story of what it takes to feed a
family today. All of these mothers love their children and want
them to eat well. But their kitchens are not equal. From cockroach
infestations and stretched budgets to picky eaters and conflicting
nutrition advice, Pressure Cooker exposes how modern families
struggle to confront high expectations and deep-seated inequalities
around getting food on the table. Based on extensive interviews and
field research in the homes and kitchens of a diverse group of
American families, Pressure Cooker challenges the logic of the most
popular foodie mantras of our time, showing how they miss the mark
and up the ante for parents and children. Romantic images of family
meals are inviting, but they create a fiction that does little to
fix the problems in the food system. The unforgettable stories in
this book evocatively illustrate how class inequality, racism,
sexism, and xenophobia converge at the dinner table. If we want a
food system that is fair, equitable, and nourishing, we must look
outside the kitchen for answers.
Food is at the center of national debates about how Americans live
and the future of the planet. Not everyone agrees about how to
reform our relationship to food, but one suggestion rises above the
din: home-cooked meals. Amid concerns about obesity and diabetes,
unpronounceable ingredients, and the environmental footprint of
industrial agriculture, food reformers implore parents to slow
down, cook from scratch, and gather around the dinner table. Voting
with your fork, they argue, will lead to happier and healthier
families. But is it really that simple? Informed by extensive
interviews and observations with families, Pressure Cooker examines
how deep-seated differences shape the work done in kitchens across
America. Conversations about family meals are dominated by a
relentless focus on what individuals can better do to improve their
own health and the health of their families and the nation. This
book looks closely at the lives of nine diverse families to
demonstrate how family meals are profoundly shaped by what happens
inside and outside people's homes. The scenes contained in this
book contrast with the joyful images we see on cooking shows or
read about in cookbooks. Romantic images of family meals are
inviting. But they create a food fiction that does little to fix
the problems in the food system. Even worse, they contribute to the
pressure on families-and in particular, mothers-to strive for an
ideal that has never been simple to achieve. A day of food
reckoning cannot come without considering how class inequality,
racism, sexism, and xenophobia pass through the kitchen. To ensure
a food system that is fair and equitable, we must move the
conversation out of the kitchen.
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