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'A book grows rather like a snow crystal. One doesn't write it from
start to finish but, in greater or less degree, all at the same
time ... that is why my book is not in chronological order; for
everything is of the present, held in the moment when thought
captures it.' Kurt Diemberger's Summits and Secrets is a
mountaineering autobiography like no other. Writing anecdotally,
Diemberger provides an abstract look into his life and climbing
career that is both fascinating and awe-inspiring to navigate.
Known for surviving the 1986 K2 disaster - an account described in
harrowing detail in his award-winning book The Endless Knot -
Diemberger provides a captivating insight into his earlier climbs
in Summits and Secrets. From climbing his first peak in the Tyrol
mountains of Austria, to the epoch-making first ascent of Broad
Peak with Hermann Buhl in 1957, and then summiting Dhaulagiri in
1960, where he became one of only two people to have made first
ascents of two mountains over 8,000 metres, Diemberger recounts his
experiences with wit, honesty and an infectious enthusiasm: 'Every
climber knows the thrill ... the unique inexplicable tension, which
the regular shapes of the mountain world awake in him: huge
pyramids, enormous rectangular slabs, piled-up triangles of rock,
white circles, immense squares - the thrill of simplicity of shape
and outline and the excitement of mastering them, to an
unbelievable extent, by his own efforts, his own power ... '
Summits and Secrets is a must-read for those wanting an insight
into the life and achievements of one of the toughest high-altitude
climbers the world has ever known.
A monumental book - I defy anyone to read it and remain unmoved. -
Stephen Venables, Alpine Journal. Acclaimed as one of the most
powerful accounts of mountain adventure and tragedy ever written,
The Endless Knot is a harrowing account of the 1986 K2 disaster. A
rare first-hand account from a survivor at the very epicentre of
the drama, The Endless Knot describes the disaster in frank detail.
Kurt Diemberger's account of the final days of success, accident,
storm and escape during which five climbers died, including his
partner Julie Tullis and the great British mountaineer Al Rouse, is
lacerating in its sense of tragedy, loss and dogged survival. Only
Diemberger and Willi Bauer escaped the mountain. K2 had claimed the
lives of 13 climbers that summer. Kurt Diemberger is one of only
two climbers to have made first ascents of two 8000-metre peaks,
Broad Peak and Dhaulagiri. A superb mountaineer, the K2 trauma left
him physically and emotionally ravaged, but it also marked him out
as an instinctive and tenacious survivor. After a long period of
recovery Diemberger published The Endless Knot and resumed life as
a mountaineer, filmmaker and international lecturer.
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