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The intersection of women's fashion and big business in the US has
always been a compelling study across social strata. The
ready-to-wear apparel industry thrives on creating a presumably
original design that is then interpreted into copies. Called design
piracy by some and the knock-off process by most in the industry,
copying fashion designs is a firmly embedded business strategy that
predates even the advent of women's ready-to-wear in the late
nineteenth century. Historically, some industry organizations and
individual designers accepted and supported copying as crucial to
the transmission of fashion; others strove to prevent the practice,
arguing harms ranging from lost profits to the abuse of labor.
Threaded through the complicated and fascinating history of US
ready-towear fashion are more than eighty attempts to legislate for
design protection, and countless efforts to stymie piracy through
patents, trademarking, or industry self-regulation. The authors
analyze legal and apparel industry documents; governmental reports;
and their own primary research conducted in museums, archives, and
special collections to shed light on arguments both for and against
design piracy. A main focus is the Fashion Originators Guild of
America (FOGA), one of the most successful industry organizations
to attempt design protection. Knock It Off puts into perspective
the conflicting interests that have always set fashion design apart
from other creative works and continue to make the industry an
endlessly perplexing and risky business.
The Palestinian Druze are the only Israeli Arabs who are
conscripted into the Israeli army today. Based on Israeli military
and political documents, this book looks at the origins of the
Druze's unique status in Israeli society by telling the story of
the military and political alliance that emerged between the Druze
and the Jewish army in the 1948 war.
The Palestinian Druze are the only Israeli Arabs who are
conscripted into the Israeli army today. Based on Israeli military
and political documents, this book looks at the origins of the
Druze's unique status in Israeli society by telling the story of
the military and political alliance that emerged between the Druze
and the Jewish army in the 1948 war.
As the Vietnam War divided the nation, a network of antiwar
coffeehouses appeared in the towns and cities outside American
military bases. Owned and operated by civilian activists, GI
coffeehouses served as off-base refuges for the growing number of
active-duty soldiers resisting the war. In the first history of
this network, David L. Parsons shows how antiwar GIs and civilians
united to battle local authorities, vigilante groups, and the
military establishment itself by building a dynamic peace movement
within the armed forces. Peopled with lively characters and set in
the tense environs of base towns around the country, this book
complicates the often misunderstood relationship between the
civilian antiwar movement, U.S. soldiers, and military officials
during the Vietnam era. Using a broad set of primary and secondary
sources, Parsons shows us a critical moment in the history of the
Vietnam-era antiwar movement, when a chain of counterculture
coffeehouses brought the war's turbulent politics directly to the
American military's doorstep.
The harsh life of young eleven-year-old Andrew Boyd is forever
altered in the summer of 1910, along with everyone he would meet
from that day forth. In the lull between two wars, America wades
within the shallows of prejudice and self-worth. Yet Andy serves as
a mirror that unconsciously reflected people for what they truly
are. Poor and hardworking, he and his mother obtain work in the
industrial thriving city of Richmond, by means of the prosperously
influential Stone family. Among the many that he influences, the
Stone children have the greatest impact upon him. A headstrong and
tempered William becomes his best friend, while ambiguous and
starry-eyed Cherish forever torments his emotions. With their
ever-changing world, they share many discerning firsts. As they
pass through their teenage years, their conflicts amplify until
eventually boiling over into the war. The story unfolds as Andy
looks back upon the course of life even as he nears the end of his.
Ice. Methedrine. Crank. Crystal. Whatever its guise, the social and
political contexts of methamphetamine share a certain uniqueness.
Nicholas Parsons chronicles the history and mythology of
methamphetamine in the United States from the 1940s-when it was
hailed as a wonder drug-to the present. In an intriguing analysis,
he also makes an important contribution to our understanding of the
social construction of social problems.
Military installations, airports, sporting events, and other
facilities curtail operations when cloud-to-ground (CG) lightning
is present. The National Lightning Detection Network records
approximately 20 million lightning flashes each year (Orville and
Huffines 1999). Because of the frequency and random nature of CG
lightning more people become casualties to lightning each year than
to either tornadoes or hurricanes. Lightning specific warning
criteria are not standard and appear to have evolved over time as a
result of increasing the distance in response to lightning
incidents until the proper balance between threat and impact were
achieved, rather than through research and lightning data analysis.
This research effort attempted to quantify what constitutes a safe
distance when lightning is present. The method used in this
research project groups lightning flashes into clusters using
spatial and temporal constraints. However, not all flashes meet the
time and distance criteria for clustering and remained outside of
the grouped flashes and as such are identified as isolated flashes.
These isolated flashes are outliers in the data set, but are
precisely the flashes that prove most dangerous. For this reason
not only were the distances between each flash and cluster center
studied, but also the distances between each isolated flash and its
nearest neighboring flash. Distributions for both distances were
studied for the continental U.S. by season.
This is a book that nurse managers and all managers throughout the
hospital should be reading! It provides an overview of how to
create the interdisciplinary team management and shared values
essential to effective restructuring. It also contains valuable
advice on staffing plans, management challenges and solutions,
quality control issues, lessons learned and pitfalls to avoid, and
a host of other special considerations. You'll learn how to develop
a viable financial plan, predict the impact of restructuring, and
collect and evaluate data to determine cost savings, quality of
care outcomes, and patient satisfaction!
Despite its international significance, Madrid has been almost
entirely ignored by urban, literary and cultural studies published
in English. A Cultural History of Madrid: Modernism and the Urban
Spectacle corrects that oversight by presenting an urban and
cultural history of the city from the turn of the century to the
early 1930s.
Between 1900 and 1930, Madrid's population doubled to almost one
million, with less than half the population being indigenous to the
city itself. Far from the 'Castilian' capital it was made out to
be, Madrid was fast becoming a socially magnetic, increasingly
secular and cosmopolitan metropolis. Parsons explores the interface
between elite, mass and popular culture in Madrid while considering
the construction of a modern madrileno identity that developed
alongside urban and social modernization. She emphasizes the
interconnection of art and popular culture in the creation of a
metropolitan personality and temperament.
The book draws on literary, theatrical, cinematic and photographic
texts, including the work of such figures as Ramon Mesonero
Romanos, Benito Perez Galdos, Pio Baroja, Ramon Gomez de la Serna,
Ramon Valle-Inclan and Maruja Mallo. In addition, the author
examines the development of new urban-based art forms and
entertainments such as the zarzuela, music halls and cinema, and
considers their interaction with more traditional cultural
identities and activities. In arguing that traditional aspects of
culture were incorporated into the everyday life of urban
modernity, Parsons shows how the boundaries between 'high' and
'low' culture became increasingly blurred as a new identity
influenced by modern consumerism emerged. She investigatesthe
interaction of the geographical landscape of the city with its
expression in both the popular imagination and in aesthetic
representations, detailing and interrogating the new freedoms,
desires and perspectives of the Madrid modernista.
Despite its international significance, Madrid has been almost
entirely ignored by urban, literary and cultural studies published
in English. A Cultural History of Madrid: Modernism and the Urban
Spectacle corrects that oversight by presenting an urban and
cultural history of the city from the turn of the century to the
early 1930s.Between 1900 and 1930, Madrid's population doubled to
almost one million, with less than half the population being
indigenous to the city itself. Far from the 'Castilian' capital it
was made out to be, Madrid was fast becoming a socially magnetic,
increasingly secular and cosmopolitan metropolis. Parsons explores
the interface between elite, mass and popular culture in Madrid
while considering the construction of a modern madrileno identity
that developed alongside urban and social modernization. She
emphasizes the interconnection of art and popular culture in the
creation of a metropolitan personality and temperament.The book
draws on literary, theatrical, cinematic and photographic texts,
including the work of such figures as Ramon Mesonero Romanos,
Benito Perez Galdos, Pio Baroja, Ramon Gomez de la Serna, Ramon
Valle-Inclan and Maruja Mallo. In addition, the author examines the
development of new urban-based art forms and entertainments such as
the zarzuela, music halls and cinema, and considers their
interaction with more traditional cultural identities and
activities. In arguing that traditional aspects of culture were
incorporated into the everyday life of urban modernity, Parsons
shows how the boundaries between 'high' and 'low' culture became
increasingly blurred as a new identity influenced by modern
consumerism emerged. She investigates theinteraction of the
geographical landscape of the city with its expression in both the
popular imagination and in aesthetic representations, detailing and
interrogating the new freedoms, desires and perspectives of the
Madrid modernista.
Streetwalking the Metropolis makes an important contribution to ongoing debates on gender, the city and modernity. Re-drawing the gendered map of urban modernism, it offers stimulating accounts of a range of writers including Amy Levy, Dorothy Richardson, Virginia Woolf, Rosamund Lehmann. Jean Rhys, Janet Flanner, Djuna Barnes, Anais Nin, Elizabeth Bowen and Doris Lessing.
Streetwalking the Metropolis makes an important contribution to ongoing debates on gender, the city and modernity. Re-drawing the gendered map of urban modernism, it offers stimulating accounts of a range of writers including Amy Levy, Dorothy Richardson, Virginia Woolf, Rosamund Lehmann. Jean Rhys, Janet Flanner, Djuna Barnes, Anais Nin, Elizabeth Bowen and Doris Lessing.
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