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Southern barbecue and barbecue traditions are the focus of
Cornbread Nation 2, our second collection of the best of Southern
food writing. ""Barbecue is the closest thing we have in the United
States to Europe's wines or cheeses; drive a hundred miles and the
barbecue changes,"" writes John Shelton Reed. Indeed, no other dish
is served a dozen different ways just between Memphis and
Birmingham. In tribute to what Vince Staten calls ""the slowest of
the slow foods,"" contributors discuss the politics, sociology, and
virtual religion of barbecue in the South, where communities are
defined by what wood they burn, what sauce they make, and what they
serve with barbecue. Jim Auchmutey links barbecue to the success of
certain Southern politicians; Marcie Cohen Ferris looks at kosher
brisket; and Robb Walsh investigates why black cooks have been
omitted from the accepted histories of Texas barbecue, despite
their central role in its development. Beyond the barbecue pit,
John Martin Taylor sings the virtues of boiled peanuts, Calvin
Trillin savors Cajun boudin, and Eddie Dean revisits his days
driving an ice cream truck deep in the Appalachian Mountains. From
barbecue to scuppernongs to popsicles, the forty-three newspaper
columns, magazine pieces, poems, and essays collected here confirm
that a bounty of good writing exists when it comes to good eating,
Southern style.
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