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Waves critically affect man in coastal regions, including the open
coasts and adjacent continental shelves. Preventing beach erosion,
designing and building structures, designing and operating ships,
providing marine forecasts, and coastal planning are but a few
examples of projects for which extensive information about wave
conditions is critical. Scientific studies, especially those in
volving coastal processes and the development of better wave
prediction models, also require wave condition information. How
ever, wave conditions along and off the coasts of the United States
have not been adequately determined. The main categories of
available wave data are visual estimates of wave conditions made
from ships at sea, scientific measurements of waves made for short
time periods at specific locations, and a small number of long-term
measurements made from piers or offshore platforms. With these
considerations in mind, the National Ocean Survey of the National
Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration sponsored the Ocean Wave
Climate Symposium at Herndon, Virginia, July 12-14, 1977. This
volume contains papers presented at this symposium. A goal of the
symposium was to establish the foundations for a com prehensive and
far-sighted wave measurement and analysis program to fully describe
the coastal wave climate of the United States. Emphasis was placed
on ocean engineering and scientific uses of wave data, existing
wave monitoring programs, and modern measure ment techniques which
may provide currently needed data."
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