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This is the tale of Mark Horrell's not-so-nearly ascent of
Gasherbrum in Pakistan, of how one man's boredom and frustration
was conquered by a gutsy combination of exhaustion, cowardice, and
sheer mountaineering incompetence. He made not one, not two, but
three intrepid assaults, some of which got quite a distance beyond
Base Camp, and overcame many perilous circumstances along the way.
The mountaineer Joe Simpson famously crawled for three days with a
broken leg, but did he ever have to read Angels and Demons by Dan
Brown while waiting for a weather window? But that's enough about
Mark's attempt; there were some talented climbers on the mountain
as well, and this story is also about them. How did they get on?
Heroes, villains, oddballs and madmen - 8,000m peaks attract them
all, and drama, intrigue and cock-ups aplenty were inevitable.
As he teetered on a narrow rock ledge a yak's bellow short of the
stratosphere, with a rubber mask strapped to his face, a pair of
mittens the size of a sealion's flippers, and a drop of two
kilometres below him, it's fair to say Mark Horrell wasn't entirely
happy with the situation he found himself in. He had been an
ordinary hiker who had only read books about mountaineering. When
he signed up for an organised trek in Nepal with a group of elderly
ladies, little did he know that ten years later he would be
attempting to climb the world's highest mountain. But as he
travelled across the Himalayas, Andes, Alps and East Africa,
following in the footsteps of the pioneers, he dreamed up a
seven-point plan to gain the skills and experience which could turn
a wild idea into reality. Funny, incisive and heartfelt, his
journey provides a refreshingly honest portrait of the joys and
torments of a modern-day Everest climber.
In April 2014 Mark Horrell went on a mountaineering expedition to
Nepal, hoping to climb Lhotse, the fourth-highest mountain in the
world, which shares a base camp and climbing route with Mount
Everest. He dreamed of following in the footsteps of Tenzing Norgay
and Edmund Hillary, by climbing through the infamous ice maze of
the Khumbu Icefall, and he yearned to sleep in the grand
amphitheatre of Everest Base Camp, surrounded by towering peaks. He
was also intrigued by the media publicity surrounding commercial
expeditions to Everest. He wanted to discover for himself whether
it had become the circus that everybody described. But when a
devastating avalanche swept across the Khumbu Icefall, he got more
than he bargained for. Suddenly he found himself witnessing the
greatest natural disaster Everest had ever seen. And that was just
the start. Everest Sherpas came out in protest, issuing a list of
demands to the Government of Nepal. What happened next left his
team shocked, bewildered and fearing for their safety.
In April 2012 Mark Horrell travelled to Tibet hoping to become, if
not the first person to climb Mount Everest, at least the first
Karl Pilkington lookalike to do so. He joined a mountaineering
expedition which included an Australian sexagenarian, two Brits
whose idea of hydration meant a box of red wine, and a New
Zealander who enjoyed reminding his teammates of the perils of
altitude sickness and the number of ways they might die on summit
day. The media often write about Mount Everest deaths and how easy
the world's highest mountain has become to climb, but how
accurately does this reflect reality? The Chomolungma Diaries is a
true story of ordinary people climbing Mount Everest with a
commercial expedition, and preparing for the biggest day of their
lives. Imagine your life clipped into a narrow line of cord five
miles above the earth, on the world's most terrifying ridge walk.
This book will bring you just a little bit closer to that
experience.
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