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‘If we were guaranteed success in everything we tried then life
would be pretty boring.’ Mainstream news reports about climbing
are dominated by action from the world’s highest mountains, more
often than not focusing on tragedy and controversy. Far removed
from this high-altitude circus, a group of visionary and specialist
mountaineers are seeking out eye-catching objectives in the most
remote corners of the greater ranges and attempting first ascents
in lightweight style. Mick Fowler is the master of the small and
remote Himalayan expedition. He has been at the forefront of this
pioneering approach to alpinism for over thirty years, balancing
his family life, a full-time job at the tax office and his annual
trips to the greater ranges in order to attempt mountains that may
never have been seen before by Westerners, let alone climbed by
them. In No Easy Way, his third volume of climbing memoirs
following Vertical Pleasure and On Thin Ice, Fowler recounts a
series of expeditions to stunning mountains in China, India, Nepal
and Tibet. Alongside partners including Paul Ramsden, Dave
Turnbull, Andy Cave and Victor Saunders, he attempts striking,
technically challenging unclimbed lines on Shiva, Gave Ding and
Mugu Chuli – with a number of ascents winning prestigious Piolets
d’Or, the Oscars of the mountaineering world. Written with his
customary dry wit and understatement, he manages challenges away
– the art of securing a permit for Tibet – and at home – his
duties as Alpine Club president – all the while pursuing his
passion for exploratory mountaineering.
On Thin Ice is Mick Fowler's second set of climbing memoirs,
following Vertical Pleasure. Here, the celebrated mountaineer
records his expeditions since 1990 where, despite work and family
commitments, he maintained a regular series of 'big trips' to
challenging objectives around the world with a sequence of major
successes. The combination of exotic travel with major climbs
provides the ultimate adrenalin-soaked holiday experience that Mick
Fowler has mastered to the full. We are transported from the cliffs
of Jordan to remote peaks in deepest Asia via Taweche and
Changabang in the Himalaya, with jaunts to the Andes and Alaska
thrown in for good measure. That Fowler has organised this routine
for years, while holding down a conventional nine-to-five job with
the Inland Revenue, has constantly amazed his peers. In this, his
second book, he has also mastered the skills of amusing
travel-writing to entertain us as a preliminary to the finale of a
titanic struggle on each of his fiendishly demanding climbs. His
ascent of Siguniang in 2002, with Paul Ramsden featured hard ice
climbing on a fabulous face in deepest China and was so admired by
the international climbing community that it won the US Golden
Piton and the French Piolets d'Or, both awards given for the finest
alpine achievements in the world during that year. Fowler describes
his travels in the great traditions, with engaging modesty and wit,
but the climbs themselves are frequently so dramatic that the
anxiety and tension forces its way to the surface to be matched by
a corresponding relief and triumph when success and safe descent is
achieved.
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders, famed British alpinists learned to
know each other while winter climbing in Scotland, in all kind of
weather, mostly bad: an ideal stepping stone for great Himalayan
adventures. They shared three expeditions in Pakistan: The ascents
of Bojohagur (7329m), Spantik (7027m) and Ultar (7388m). The tales
of these selected adventures, published separately over three of
their books (rewarded several times - Banff festival, Boardman
Tasker), have been assembled in a new book: HIMALAYA - Mick and
Vic' Tribulations. The two pals' tales are intertwined and offer
two visions sometimes similar, sometimes different of the same
events, with a caustic humour at the turn of every single line.
This refreshing, compelling text full of funny and uncommon
anecdotes is also the story of their strong friendship. Besides the
amateurs of mountaineering tales, this book should please the
amateurs of unconventional atmospheres.
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