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This book examines a group of sixteenth- and seventeenth-century
figural silks depicting legendary lovers from the Khamsa (Quintet)
of epic Persian poetry. Codified by Nizami Ganjavi in the twelfth
century, the Khamsa gained popularity in the Persian-speaking realm
through illustrated manuscripts produced for the elite, creating a
template for illustrating climactic scenes in the love stories of
"Layla and Majnun" and "Khusrau and Shirin" that appear on early
modern silks. Attributed to Safavid Iran, the publication proposes
that dress fashioned from these silks represented Sufi ideals based
on the characters. Migration of weavers between Safavid and Mughal
courts resulted in producing goods for a sophisticated and educated
elite, demonstrating shared cultural values and potential
reattribution. Through an examination of primary source materials,
literary analysis of the original text, and close iconographical
study of figural designs, the study presents original
cross-disciplinary arguments about patronage, provenance, and the
socio-cultural significance of wearing these silks.
Just as the clothes we wear can communicate our personality and how
we want to be perceived, so fashion can reflect the politics and
preoccupations of the society that produced it. A Cultural History
of Western Fashion guides you through the relationships between
haute couture and ready-to-wear designer fashions, popular culture,
big business, high-tech production, as well as traditional and
social media. Exploring fashion's interdisciplinary nature, English
and Munroe also highlight the parallel evolution of clothing design
and the other visual arts over the last 150 years. This new edition
includes expanded coverage of the build up to the First World War
and brings this classic text up to date. There is also a new
chapter on smart textiles and technology, exploring the work of
Hussein Chalayan and Iris Van Herpen among others, and expanded
coverage of the role of sustainability in the contemporary fashion
industry, including biosynthetic textile production and Stella
McCartney's use of vegan leather.
Just as the clothes we wear can communicate our personality and how
we want to be perceived, so fashion can reflect the politics and
preoccupations of the society that produced it. A Cultural History
of Western Fashion guides you through the relationships between
haute couture and ready-to-wear designer fashions, popular culture,
big business, high-tech production, as well as traditional and
social media. Exploring fashion's interdisciplinary nature, English
and Munroe also highlight the parallel evolution of clothing design
and the other visual arts over the last 150 years. This new edition
includes expanded coverage of the build up to the First World War
and brings this classic text up to date. There is also a new
chapter on smart textiles and technology, exploring the work of
Hussein Chalayan and Iris Van Herpen among others, and expanded
coverage of the role of sustainability in the contemporary fashion
industry, including biosynthetic textile production and Stella
McCartney's use of vegan leather.
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