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On 20 August 1980 Reinhold Messner reached the summit of Everest -
alone and without the use of oxygen. This is an account of his
extraordinary achievement. Messner describes his journey through
Tibet and identifies with mountaineers who went before him, such as
Mallory, Irvine and Wilson.
In 1938 Anderl Heckmair made the first ascent of the North Face of
the Eiger, a monumental climb that cemented his place in history.
In My Life he tells the story of how he turned from a fragile child
wrapped 'quite literally, in cotton bindings,' into one of the most
important mountaineers in the world. Leaving school in 1920,
Heckmair dedicated himself to climbing, becoming a full-time
'mountain vagabond'. Penniless, he lived in Alpine huts and cycled
from climb to climb, even riding from Germany to the High Atlas
mountains of Morocco. He rapidly developed as a mountaineer, making
an ascent of the Walker Spur in awful weather, and a solo ascent of
the Matterhorn in walking shoes, a feat that nobody believed. But
his crowning achievement, climbed in full media glare, would always
be his Eiger ascent. Events did not always run smoothly - arrested
after a quarrel with a farmer, he escaped through a window ('never
imprison mountain climbers in towers'). When arrested again, his
ice axes mistaken for deadly weapons while he slept on a park
bench, Heckmair chose to stay put, preferring the cell bunk to his
bench. At times, the book ventures into darker territory. As one of
the great German climbers of the 1930s, Heckmair inevitably
attracted the attention of the Nazi party, he found his Eiger
triumph twisted to suit their ends, and he himself seated next to
Hitler at a party. At its heart this climbing tale is a celebration
of adventure. Told in joyful, engaging and relaxed style, it is as
full of life and passion for the mountains as Anderl Heckmair
himself.
"Mountaineering is a relentless pursuit. One climbs further and
further yet never reaches the destination. Perhaps that is what
gives it its own particular charm. One is constantly searching for
something never to be found." - Hermann Buhl Hermann Buhl - the
first man to stand atop Nanga Parbat, and legendary for his will to
push himself to the last - was the mountaineer of the 1950s. His
account, Nanga Parbat Pilgrimage, has inspired generations of
climbers. Yet that classic, shaped and romanticised by a
collaborator, does not reveal the man Buhl really was. Now
celebrated mountaineer Reinhold Messner and journalist Horst Hofler
publish Buhl in his own words, pure and unadorned, in Hermann Buhl:
Climbing without Compromise.Drawing text from Buhl's original
climbing diaries, journals, and articles written for mountaineering
publications of his time, Messner and Hofler present a portrait of
the whole man - strong-willed, creative, and fragile. A loner,
rough-edged in his relations with fellow climbers, Buhl took
opposition and disagreements heavily to heart. He was demanding as
a father, yet he often sang for his young daughters. Though intense
and always pushing his limits on the mountain, he displayed a
subtle sense of humour in his journals.Climbing without Compromise
also reveals Buhl as an astonishingly modern mountaineer. Indeed,
Buhl was a pioneer looking to the future. Buhl lived, above all,
for and through his climbing, at a time when no one dreamed about
making a living through top alpine achievements. The Buhl Crack on
the Cima Canali demonstrates his style as a free climber; his
ascent of Broad Peak gives us a glimpse of the super-alpinism of
the future. Had Hermann Buhl been born 40 years later, writes
Messner, he would surely have been one of the leading sport
climbers, and a classic mountaineer without equal. But the
whirlwind of energy that was Hermann Buhl was not destined to live
a long life. When a cornice collapsed beneath him on Chogolisa,
Buhl became instead a tragic hero of the 20th century.
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