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"Gay style actually sets trends. It's what straight people take
fashion from."--Tony WoodcockFrom the New Edwardians and muscle
boys to Radical Drag and Genderfuck, gay men's dress has had a
profound impact on fashion. However, it is easy to forget that,
with few exceptions, gay men earlier in the century took great
pains to conceal their sexual identity. Men such as Quentin Crisp,
while highly influential, were far from the norm. Most gay men
resorted to a number of subtle dress codes to identify themselves
to other gay men -- from Oscar Wilde's famous green carnation,
which was still being worn in the 1930s, through to suede shoes.
Beginning with a look at the subcultural world of gay men in the
early part of this century -- particularly in New York and London
-- this fascinating book analyzes the trends in dress adopted by
gay men as well as the challenge gay style has made to mainstream
men's fashion. The importance of dress choice to the formation of
sexual identity is highlighted, as is gay influence on punk and the
fashion industry as a whole. The rise of new dress choices in the
wake of gay liberation is analyzed with particular emphasis on the
masculinization of gay dress. The importance of the body to gay
culture is addressed, from the physique magazines of the 1950s,
through to tattooing and body piercing, and their origins in the
S&M scene.Anyone interested in gay culture or the history of
dress will find this book to be essential reading.
Through an astonishing series of interviews, Gay Men’s Style will
take you on a dizzying journey through shops, bars, clubs, gyms,
workplaces and global city streets. Based on the lived experience
of gay men of all ages from the UK, USA, Europe, Australia and
Japan, Shaun Cole calls for a more nuanced understanding of gay
male dress and style. Gay male identities in the 21st century are
increasingly intersectional, fluid and flexible, from
hyper-masculinity and muscularity seen in clubs and on the pages of
gay magazines to self-knowing drag culture and androgynous gender
play in the fashion industry. Gay Men’s Style explores these
multiple identities and the ways in which gay men self-identify and
present themselves to the world through dress. This analysis is set
alongside seismic shifts in technology, global communication and
gay rights to redress and readdress the subject of gay men’s
style in a time of social and sexual upheaval.
Through an astonishing series of interviews, Gay Men’s Style will
take you on a dizzying journey through shops, bars, clubs, gyms,
workplaces and global city streets. Based on the lived experience
of gay men of all ages from the UK, USA, Europe, Australia and
Japan, Shaun Cole calls for a more nuanced understanding of gay
male dress and style. Gay male identities in the 21st century are
increasingly intersectional, fluid and flexible, from
hyper-masculinity and muscularity seen in clubs and on the pages of
gay magazines to self-knowing drag culture and androgynous gender
play in the fashion industry. Gay Men’s Style explores these
multiple identities and the ways in which gay men self-identify and
present themselves to the world through dress. This analysis is set
alongside seismic shifts in technology, global communication and
gay rights to redress and readdress the subject of gay men’s
style in a time of social and sexual upheaval.
The fashion media is in the midst of deep social and technological
change. Including a broad range of case studies, from fashion
plates to fashion films, and from fashion magazines to fashion
blogs, this ground-breaking book provides an up-to-date examination
of the role and significance of this field. Winner of the PCA/ACA
Ray and Pat Browne Award for Best Edited Collection, Fashion Media
includes chapters written by international scholars covering topics
from historic magazine cultures and contemporary digital
innovations to art and film, exploring themes such as gender,
ethnicity, design, taste and authorship. Highlighting the
complexity of processes that bind design, design, technology,
society and identity together, Fashion Media will be of be
essential reading for students of fashion studies, cultural
studies, visual culture studies, design history, communications and
art and design practice and theory.
Celebrating 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the
portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man The style
of the dandy is elegant but bold-dedicated to the perfection of
taste. This meticulously choreographed look has a vibrant history;
the legacy of Beau Brummell, the original dandy of Regency England,
can be traced in the clothing of urban dandies today. Dandy Style
celebrates 250 years of male self-expression, investigating the
portraiture and wardrobe of the fashionable British man. Combining
fashion, art, and photography, the historic and the contemporary,
the provocative and the respectable, it considers key themes in the
development of male style and identity, including elegance,
uniformity, and spectacle. Various types of dandy are represented
by iconic figures such as Oscar Wilde, Edward VIII as Prince of
Wales, and Gilbert & George. They appear alongside the seminal
designs of Vivienne Westwood, Ozwald Boateng, and Alexander
McQueen; and portraits by Thomas Gainsborough and David Hockney.
Published in association with Manchester Art Gallery Exhibition
Schedule: Manchester Art Gallery (October 8, 2022-May 1, 2023)
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