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This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the
previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same
title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive
overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean
surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the
previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in
the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment
of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements
demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the
scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and
substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have
been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new
discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In
this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the
fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral
and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for
the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new
chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from
rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well
as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently
available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO)
are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated.
The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the
modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently
operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on
the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as
coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are
substantially extended and updated to include the last
discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and
detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers
and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of
rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has
been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the
previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same
title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive
overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean
surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones.Since the
previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in
the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment
of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements
demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the
scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and
substantially supplementing others.All chapters of the book have
been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new
discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In
this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the
fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral
and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for
the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new
chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from
rest, are also included.The air-sea interaction processes as well
as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently
available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO)
are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated.
The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the
modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently
operating marine satellites.In this revised edition, chapters on
the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as
coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are
substantially extended and updated to include the last
discoveries.The explanations in the book are self-contained and
detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers
and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of
rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has
been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles.
New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd
Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book
published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN
9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study
on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible
landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical
principles, physical description of the observed phenomena,
practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and
extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are
discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were
completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries
which were published since the first edition in 1996. In
particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and
contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and
shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous
sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through
mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the
art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and
SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of
waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing,
including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are
presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of
relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and
author index.
New Edition: Ocean Surface Waves: Their Physics and Prediction (3rd
Edition)The book is an extended and updated edition of the book
published in 1996 under the same title (World Scientific, ISBN
9810216866). It contains a very comprehensive and extensive study
on surface ocean waves induced by wind, earthquakes and possible
landslides and asteroids impacts. The basic mathematical
principles, physical description of the observed phenomena,
practical forecasting techniques of the various wave parameters and
extended application in ocean and coastal engineering, are
discussed from the stochastic point of view.All chapters were
completely rewritten and supplemented with many new discoveries
which were published since the first edition in 1996. In
particular, new chapters are added on very interesting and
contemporary topics such as: wave breaking mechanisms in deep- and
shallow water, freak waves, tsunami, water circulation in porous
sea bottom induced by surface waves, and waves propagation through
mangrove forests.In terms of numerical modeling, the state of the
art of the modern methodology of wave prediction models WAM and
SWAN, as well as of the high sophisticated satellite methods of
waves measurement and modern methods of signal processing,
including wavelets approach and Hilbert Transform approach are
presented. The book is supplemented with an extended list of
relevant and extended, contemporary bibliography, subject index and
author index.
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