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Why do the Chinese, who are mostly lactase non-persistent, suddenly
thirst for milk today? Whether it is formula milk, fresh cow milk,
or tea with condensed milk, the rocketing milk consumption and
production in China are of increasing global food safety, health,
and environmental concerns. Milk Craze examines and compares
developments in China's dairy industry and dietary dairy
consumption, cross-nationally and globally, and more specifically
in two localities: Shunde and Hong Kong. Through an innovative
analysis of medical texts and social media, as well as careful
ethnographic studies, Veronica Mak ponders why the surge in demand
for Western cow milk coincides with the plunge in sales of
indigenous water-buffalo milk and cheese. She reveals the multiple
ways in which global industries and Chinese dairy conglomerates
sabotage and destroy local dairy farms. She shows that the rise of
milk consumption is not just about the globalization of cow milk
production and Westernization of the Chinese diet, but also due to
the crossovers between the traditional Chinese diet and medicine
and modern global diets. She uses these reference points to explore
the multiple meanings of dairy foods in China, such as the class
and cultural attributes associated with British "milk tea" and
flavored yogurt products, water buffalo curds and cheese, and the
lower class associations of labor in the water-buffalo dairying
industries, and then discusses these developments in China through
colonial and modern global perspectives. Milk Craze argues
powerfully that the Westernization or dramatic change of diet in
China too often obscures structural, educational, occupational, and
social stresses and constraints, while naturalizing the dubious
redefinition of health, cognitive performance, and ideal body shape
as individual responsibility and imperative.
Why do the Chinese, who are mostly lactase non-persistent, suddenly
thirst for milk today? Whether it is formula milk, fresh cow milk,
or tea with condensed milk, the rocketing milk consumption and
production in China are of increasing global food safety, health,
and environmental concerns. Milk Craze examines and compares
developments in China's dairy industry and dietary dairy
consumption, cross-nationally and globally, and more specifically
in two localities: Shunde and Hong Kong. Through an innovative
analysis of medical texts and social media, as well as careful
ethnographic studies, Veronica Mak ponders why the surge in demand
for Western cow milk coincides with the plunge in sales of
indigenous water-buffalo milk and cheese. She reveals the multiple
ways in which global industries and Chinese dairy conglomerates
sabotage and destroy local dairy farms. She shows that the rise of
milk consumption is not just about the globalization of cow milk
production and Westernization of the Chinese diet, but also due to
the crossovers between the traditional Chinese diet and medicine
and modern global diets. She uses these reference points to explore
the multiple meanings of dairy foods in China, such as the class
and cultural attributes associated with British "milk tea" and
flavored yogurt products, water buffalo curds and cheese, and the
lower class associations of labor in the water-buffalo dairying
industries, and then discusses these developments in China through
colonial and modern global perspectives. Milk Craze argues
powerfully that the Westernization or dramatic change of diet in
China too often obscures structural, educational, occupational, and
social stresses and constraints, while naturalizing the dubious
redefinition of health, cognitive performance, and ideal body shape
as individual responsibility and imperative.
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