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'Mountains have given structure to my adult life. I suppose they
have also given me purpose, though I still can't guess what that
purpose might be. And although I have glimpsed the view from the
mountaintop and I still have some memory of what direction life is
meant to be going in, I usually lose sight of the wood for the
trees. In other words, I, like most of us, have lived a life of
structured chaos.' Structured Chaos is Victor Saunders'
award-winning follow-up to Elusive Summits (winner of the Boardman
Tasker Prize in 1990), No Place to Fall and Himalaya: The
Tribulations of Vic & Mick. He reflects on his early childhood
in Malaya and his first experiences of climbing as a student, and
describes his progression from scaling canal-side walls in Camden
to expeditions in the Himalaya and Karakoram. Following climbs on
K2 and Nanga Parbat, he leaves his career as an architect and moves
to Chamonix to become a mountain guide. He later makes the first
ascent of Chamshen in the Saser Kangri massif, and reunites with
old friend Mick Fowler to climb the north face of Sersank. This is
not just a tale of mountaineering triumphs, but also an account of
rescues, tragedies and failures. Telling his story with humour and
warmth, Saunders spans the decades from youthful awkwardness to
concerns about age-related forgetfulness, ranging from 'Where did I
put my keys?' to 'Is this the right mountain?' Structured Chaos is
a testament to the value of friendship and the things that really
matter in life: being in the right place at the right time with the
right people, and making the most of the view.
No Place to Fall is Victor Saunders' follow up to his Boardman
Tasker Prize winning debut book Elusive Summits. Covering three
expeditions in Nepal, the Karakoram and the Kumaon, each shares the
exhilaration of attempting new alpine-style routes on terrifyingly
committing mountains. In 1989 Victor Saunders and Steve Sustad
completed a difficult route on the West Face of Makalu II, only to
be brought to a storm-bound halt above 7,000 metres while
descending. Without food or bivouac gear, they endured a tortuous
descent after a night in the open. Two years later the pair were
with a small team in the Hunza valley exploring elusive access to a
giant hidden pillar on the unvisited South-East Face of Ultar, one
of the highest and most shapely of the world's unclimbed peaks. In
1992 Victor Saunders was part of a joint Indian-British team
climbing various peaks in the Panch Chuli range. A happy and
successful expedition narrowly avoided ending in tragedy when
Stephen Venables broke both legs in a fall on the descent from
Panch Chuli V and Chris Bonington survived another fall going to
his aid. The dramatic evacuation of Venables, in which the author
took a major part, forms an exciting climax to a story of
cutting-edge, alpine-style climbing in the world's highest
mountains. No Place to Fall offers enviable mountain exploration,
enriched by sharing the lives of the mountain peoples along the
way. Victor Saunders casts a perceptive, if bemused, eye over his
fellow climbers and reflects on the calculation of risk that drives
them back year after year to chance their lives in high places.
At a time when the greatest mountains in the greatest ranges had
been climbed by numerous routes, collected like stamps and written
about extensively, Victor Saunders and his friends relished the
exploration of the slightly lower, slightly humbler, but often more
aesthetically satisfying and no less testing summits in the 6,000-
and 7,000-metre range. With thousands of unclimbed peaks in the
Karakoram and Himalaya to choose from, these were ripe fruit for
the committed mountaineers of the day. In his
Boardman-Tasker-winning Elusive Summits, Victor Saunders describes
four expeditions to the Karakoram, to Uzum Brakk, Bojohaghur
Duanasir, Rimo and the stunning Spantik. Battling crevasses and
violent weather, injured climbers and dropped rucksacks, Saunders
and his friends make a string of exciting and difficult ascents.
Saunders communicates the highs and lows of expedition life with
relish, good humour, and a keen eye for the idiosyncratic among his
companions. His first book, Elusive Summits, is a wonderful
celebration of the sheer exhilaration that comes from the hardest
level of alpine-style exploration in the Karakoram.
Mick Fowler and Victor Saunders, famed British alpinists learned to
know each other while winter climbing in Scotland, in all kind of
weather, mostly bad: an ideal stepping stone for great Himalayan
adventures. They shared three expeditions in Pakistan: The ascents
of Bojohagur (7329m), Spantik (7027m) and Ultar (7388m). The tales
of these selected adventures, published separately over three of
their books (rewarded several times - Banff festival, Boardman
Tasker), have been assembled in a new book: HIMALAYA - Mick and
Vic' Tribulations. The two pals' tales are intertwined and offer
two visions sometimes similar, sometimes different of the same
events, with a caustic humour at the turn of every single line.
This refreshing, compelling text full of funny and uncommon
anecdotes is also the story of their strong friendship. Besides the
amateurs of mountaineering tales, this book should please the
amateurs of unconventional atmospheres.
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