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Books > Arts & Architecture > Art forms, treatments & subjects > Textile arts > General
Today, we are living in the New Space Age, where mass commercial
space travel is almost within our grasp. This otherworldly
possibility has opened up new cultural images of space, both real
and fictional, and has caused fashion design and spacesuit
engineering to intersect in new, exciting ways. Spacewear traverses
this uncharted territory by exploring the changing imagination of
space in fashion-and fashion in space-from the first Space Age to
the 21st century. Exploring how space travel has stylistically and
technologically framed fashion design on earth and how we need to
revisit established design practices for the weightless
environment, Spacewear connects the catwalk and the space station.
This book draws together speculative fantasies in sci-fi films such
as Star Trek and 2001: A Space Odyssey, with the engineered
spacesuits Biosuit, and the NASA Z-2 and with catwalk
interpretations by the likes of Alexander McQueen, Hussein
Chalayan, Andre Courreges, and Iris van Herpen. While the
development of commercial space agencies has led to new concerns
for style in garments for outer space that re-think fundamental
design principles such as drape, high fashion has experimented with
new possibilities for weightlessness that extend far beyond the
1960s vision of Space Age metallic fabrics and helmet-style
headwear. Brownie takes the reader on a fascinating journey from
fantasy to function and to form, deepening our understanding of
this new category of fashion that is prompting new approaches to
garment design and construction both on earth and in outer space.
An exploration of how the rose-the most ravishingly beautiful and
symbolic of flowers-has inspired fashion over hundreds of years The
Rose in Fashion: Ravishing is a fascinating exploration of how the
rose has inspired the way we look, dress, feel, and fantasize. It
foregrounds innovative, refined, and challenging fashion design
from elite 18th-century woven silks to the latest gender-neutral
catwalk trends and Alexander McQueen rose dresses. Drawing upon
fashion clothing, everyday dress, millinery, fine jewelry, perfume,
and artificial and fresh roses, multiple expert contributors make
reference to love, beauty, sex, sin, gendered identities, rites of
passage, transgression, degradation, and death. This sumptuously
illustrated book also includes a contribution and stunning images
of roses by visionary photographer Nick Knight. Wild yet
cultivated, savage yet delicate, this flower has remained an
enduring symbol perhaps due to its versatility and the dichotomies
it represents.
Taking a major textile artwork, The Knitting Map, as a central case
study, this book interrogates the social, philosophical and
critical issues surrounding contemporary textile art today. It
explores gestures of community and controversy manifest in
contemporary textile art practices, as both process and object.
Created by more than 2,000 knitters from 22 different countries,
who were mostly working-class women, The Knitting Map became the
subject of national controversy in Ireland. Exploring the creation
of this multi-modal artwork as a key moment in Irish art history,
Textiles, Community and Controversy locates the work within a
context of feminist arts practice, including the work of Judy
Chicago, Faith Ringold and the Guerilla Girls. Bringing together
leading art critics and textile scholars, including Lucy Lippard,
Jessica Hemmings and Joanne Turney, the collection explores key
issues in textile practice from gender, class and nation to
technology and performance.
Lace was a passion of Leopold Ikle (1838-1922), scion of a Hamburg
textile dynasty who successfully produced machine-made embroidery
over the course of the industrial boom in St. Gallen around 1900.
He exported to England, France and the United States, among other
places, at a time when St. Gallen was the market leader in the lace
industry. Ikle's collection of handmade European bobbin lace and
needlepoint from the sixteenth to the nineteenth century originally
served as inspiration for his firm's textile designers. Through his
passion for collecting, however, it quickly surpassed the practical
demands of a simple pattern collection, and in 1904 he donated it
to the Textile Museum St. Gallen. Historische Spitzen provides a
comprehensive review as well as highlights of the lace samples in
this unique collection. Text in German.
The fashion business has been collecting and analyzing information
about colors, fabrics, silhouettes, and styles since the 18th
century - activities that have long been shrouded in mystery. The
Fashion Forecasters is the first book to reveal the hidden history
of color and trend forecasting and to explore its relevance to the
fashion business of the past two centuries. It sheds light on trend
forecasting in the industrial era, the profession's maturation
during the modernist moment of the 20th century, and its continued
importance in today's digital fast-fashion culture. Based on
in-depth archival research and oral history interviews, The Fashion
Forecasters examines the entrepreneurs, service companies, and
consultants that have worked behind the scenes to connect designers
and retailers to emerging fashion trends in Europe, North America,
and Asia. Here you will read about the trend studios, color
experts, and international trade fairs that formalized the
prediction process in the modern era, and hear the voices of
leading contemporary practitioners at international forecasting
companies such as the Doneger Group in New York and WGSN in London.
Probing the inner workings of the global fashion system, The
Fashion Forecasters blends history, biography, and ethnography into
a highly readable cultural narrative.
Collections of textiles-historic costume, quilts, needlework
samplers, and the like-have benefited greatly from the digital turn
in museum and archival work. Both institutional online repositories
and collections-based social media sites have fostered
unprecedented access to textile collections that have traditionally
been marginalized in museums. How can curators, interpreters, and
collections managers make best use of these new opportunities? To
answer this question, the author worked with sites including the
Great Lakes Quilt Center at the Michigan State University Museum,
the Design Center at Philadelphia University, the International
Quilt Study Center and Museum at the University of
Nebraska-Lincoln, and the WGBH Boston Media Library and Archives,
as well as user-curated social sites online such as Tumblr and
Polyvore, to create four compelling case studies on the
preservation, access, curation, and interpretation of textile
objects. The book explores: *The nature of digital material
culture. *The role of audience participation versus curatorial
authority online. *Audience-friendly collections metadata and
tagging. *Visual, rather than text-based, searching and cataloging.
*The legality of ownership and access of museum collections online.
*Gender equity in museums and archives. This book is essential
reading for anyone who cares for, collects, exhibits, or interprets
historic costume or textile collections, but its broad implications
for the future of museum work make it relevant for anyone with an
interest in museum work online. And because the focus of this
volume is theory and praxis, rather than specific technologies that
are likely to become obsolete, it will be staple on your bookshelf
for years to come.
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