Baskets made of baleen, the fibrous substance found in the mouths of plankton-eating whales-a malleable and durable material that once had commercial uses equivalent to those of plastics today-were first created by Alaska Natives in the early years of the twentieth century. Because they were made for the tourist trade, they were initially disdained by scholars and collectors, but today they have joined other art forms as a highly prized symbol of native identity. Baskets of exquisite workmanship, often topped with fanciful ivory carvings, have been created for almost a century, contributing significantly to the livelihood of their makers in the Arctic villages of Barrow, Point Hope, Wainwright, and Point Lay, Alaska. Baleen Basketry of the North Alaskan Eskimo, originally published in 1983, was the first book on this unusual basket form. In this completely redesigned edition, it remains the most informative work on baleen baskets, covering their history, characteristics, and construction, as well as profiling their makers. Illustrations of the basketmakers at work and line drawings showing the methods of construction are a charming addition to this book, which belongs in the library of all those with an interest in the art of basketry and in Alaskan Native arts in general.

Este libro, es la primera recopilacion de cronicas escritas por el artista y autor Alex Ceball sobre moda, arte y diseno de productos, contenidas en el blog FASHION COOLHUNTING, con el cual se convirtio en el primer "Fashion Blogger" en lengua castellana, un fenomeno que hasta nuestros dias, se disparo con asombrosa rapidez convirtiendolos en lideres de opinion y al autor, en uno de los nombres fundamentales para entender la historia reciente de la moda iberoamericana y del resto del mundo. Junto al universo de la moda y las tendencias, el autor saca, en cada uno de sus articulos, un relato de su propia epoca paseando al lector por temas sociales, politicos y filosoficos de un sinnumero de areas y temas, tranformando su escritura en un autentico relato de los sucesos y nombres esenciales de la epoca contemporanea en un tono directo y sin pelos en la lengua, con el cual ha ganado casi dos millones de lectores y el reconocimiento internacional. En ese mundo cambiante, el autor revela y describe los entresijos desde los pasillos de las casas de alta costura a los de palacios de gobierno, y al mismo tiempo, el mundo real de la calle para entregar al lector una impresion general y personal de eso, un mundo cambiante, como la moda. FASHION COOLHUNTING.

The ULTIMATE Guide for people who want to be a fashion model. the Instead of false impressions of fame and fortune, this book will give you the reality of the hard work that you have to do in order to become a model, and what kind of requirements that you have to meet. There are many different levels, paths and types of modeling introduced in this book so you can choose the best one for you. You are also given the important requirements that you have to meet in order to be a model, as well as some additional tools that can help you through the process. There are instructions on how to achieve success with your modeling career and how to protect yourself from scams. If your dream is to become a successful model then this is the book for you. The information provided within the pages of "How to Become a Model" will help you to establish your modeling career path and for you to eventually realise your dream of having a career as a successful model

Esta obra, recoge la segunda seleccion de cronicas escritas por el artista y autor Alex Ceball posterior a "Fashion Coolhunting: 100 cronicas de moda y tendencias." Siguiendo el mismo esquema de su anterior libro, los textos contenidos han sido cuidadosamente elegidos del blog "FASHION COOLHUNTING," el primero en el mundo escrito en lengua castellana a traves de internet, que convertiria al autor en pionero de una tendencia que seguirian miles de personas alrededor del mundo y uno de los primeros visionarios en el uso de las nuevas tecnologias de informacion y redes sociales en el desarrollo de la industria de la moda y las tendencias. En esta segunda entrega de 100 cronicas, los temas del diseno, el arte, la belleza y la moda juegan un partido con los de la crisis financiera, politica y valorica de la sociedad post contemporanea y su relacion con las tensiones sociales de la ultima etapa de la historia reciente, las redes sociales y como ha afectado al mundo de las areas creativas en un desfile de personajes, lugares y situaciones personales, grupales y globales que mutaron los gustos colectivos y de consumo, a traves de su particular vision de un mundo en constante movimiento. FASHION COOLHUNTING. VOLUME II.

From booties and scarves to art and fashion, "The Culture of Knitting" addresses knitting since 1970. Investigating knitting as art, craft, design, fashion, performance and as an aspect of the everyday, the text uncovers the cultural significance of knitting. Drawing on a variety of sources, including interviews with knitters from different disciplines as well as amateurs, the text breaks down hierarchical boundaries and stereotypical assumptions that have hitherto negated the academic study of knitting, and it highlights the diversity and complexity of knitting in all its guises. "The Culture of Knitting" investigates not merely why knitting is so popular now, but the reasons why knitting has such longevity. By assessing the literature of knitting, manuals, patterns, social and regional histories, alongside testimonial discussions with artists, designers, craftspeople and amateurs, it offers new ways of seeing, new methods of critiquing knitting, without the constraints of disciplinary boundaries in the hope of creating an environment in which knitting can be valued, recognized and discussed.

Collected and highly valued all over the world, Navajo weaving has been the subject of many aesthetic and historic studies. Grounded in archival research and cultural and economic approaches, this new book situates Navajo weavers within the economic history of the Southwest and debunks the romantic stereotypes of weavers and traders that have dominated the literature.

Beginning with an analysis of trader archives revealing that nearly all Navajo textiles were wholesaled by weight until the 1960s, M'Closkey scrutinizes the complex interactions among artists, dealers, collectors, and museum curators that have facilitated the explosion in value of those old weavings. She also examines the production of Mexican copies of Navajo-style rugs, which in recent years has combined with the market for pre-1950 textiles to diminish the demand for contemporary Navajo weavings. Navajo patterns, she points out, remain unprotected by copyright because traditional designs have been in the public domain for decades.

Much of the exploitation M'Closkey delineates has been justified by the ethnographic classification of functional textiles as nonsacred crafts. But the author's conversations with Navajo weavers suggest that their motivations for weaving go far beyond economics. Weavers' feelings for "hozho," the Navajo concept of harmonious beauty, encompass far more than any western concept of aesthetics. M'Closkey shows that the weavers' views of their work are marginalized when the work is treated as a collectible craft and culture is split from commodity.

No one who studies, collects, sells, or enjoys Navajo textiles (either genuine or knock-offs) can ignore this book. Sure to be controversial, itwill be important reading for anyone concerned with the merchandising of Indian art.

Textiles are central to our lives and are at the heart of the world's largest industries. In recent years there has been a dynamic shift in attitudes toward textiles, fuelled in part by explosive developments in technology. While textiles have always retained roots in craft and industry, the discipline now embraces a much wider range of practices. Innovations in the industry demand a fresh approach to the subject, which this comprehensive introduction ably supplies. Taking as their starting point the very meaning of textiles, Gale and Kaur go on to show the astonishing range of opportunities for careers in the field, from the creative (artists, craftspeople and designers) to the social and industrial, to the commercial and associated practices (buyers, journalists, researchers and scientists). The Textile Book takes us behind the scenes with professionals to reveal what various jobs involve, what influences decision makers, and how their decisions affect what we buy next season. What happens to clothes before they reach the shops? What determines the 'must have' item? How can recycled bottles be transformed into silk-like yarns? These and many other questions are explored to show the diversity that makes up the contemporary global textile scene. Woven, printed, embroidered, knitted -- textiles are pivotal to the everyday experience of people in all parts of the world. This wide-ranging and informative book conveys the excitement and new challenges textiles represent and is essential reading for anyone working with, studying or simply interested in textiles.

During the fourteenth and fifteenth centuries, painting on textile supports was carried out side by side with panel painting all over Europe. This volume of essays by conservators and art historians adopts an interdisciplinary approach to visual and written evidence in order to reconstruct what can be known about original display, function and painting technique.

Chapters provide detailed information on manufacturing (spinning, weaving, dyeing, decorating); communicative significance (ethnicity, identity, tradition, rank, geographic origin); and marketing and commercialization among contemporary groups of indigenous descent"--Handbook of Latin American Studies, v. 57.

The fashion business has been collecting and analyzing information about colors, fabrics, silhouettes, and styles since the 18th century - activities that have long been shrouded in mystery. The Fashion Forecasters is the first book to reveal the hidden history of color and trend forecasting and to explore its relevance to the fashion business of the past two centuries. It sheds light on trend forecasting in the industrial era, the profession's maturation during the modernist moment of the 20th century, and its continued importance in today's digital fast-fashion culture. Based on in-depth archival research and oral history interviews, The Fashion Forecasters examines the entrepreneurs, service companies, and consultants that have worked behind the scenes to connect designers and retailers to emerging fashion trends in Europe, North America, and Asia. Here you will read about the trend studios, color experts, and international trade fairs that formalized the prediction process in the modern era, and hear the voices of leading contemporary practitioners at international forecasting companies such as the Doneger Group in New York and WGSN in London. Probing the inner workings of the global fashion system, The Fashion Forecasters blends history, biography, and ethnography into a highly readable cultural narrative.

Bauhaus artist Friedl Dicker-Brandeis The work of Friedl Dicker-Brandeis (1898-1944) occupies a key position in the broader history of the Austrian avant-garde while also deepening our understanding of modernism. Her work covers an impressive range of media and genres in the visual and applied arts. Influenced by her studies at Vienna's Kunstgewerbeschule (which later became the University of Applied Arts Vienna), the Itten Private School, and the Bauhaus in Weimar, she worked as a painter, stage designer, architect, designer in Vienna and Berlin, in exile, and as a deportee. This book explores the heterogeneity of Dicker's work, reconstructs her artistic strategies and references to aesthetic and political discourses from the 1920s to the 1940s, and documents for the first time her works in the collection of the University of Applied Arts Vienna. Portrait of her work and collection catalog, dedicated to the artist, designer, and architect Friedl Dicker-Brandeis Essays by Julie M. Johnson, Robin Rehm, Daniela Stoeppel, and others To accompany an exhibition in Vienna and Zurich

Gathered over the course of four decades, the Thomas Murray collection of Indonesian textiles is one of the most important in the world. The objects comprise ritual clothing and ceremonial cloths that tell us much about the traditions of pre-Islamic Indonesian cultures, as well as the influences of regional trade with China, India, the Arab world, and Europe. As with the earlier volume, Textiles of Japan (Prestel, 2018), the book focuses on some of the finest cloths to come out of the archipelago, presenting each object with impeccable photographs. Geographically arranged, this volume pays particular attention to textiles from the Batak and the Lampung region of Sumatra, the Dayak of Borneo, and the Toraja of Sulawesi, as well as rare textiles from Sumba, Timor and other islands. Readers will learn about the intricate traditions of dyeing, weaving, and beading techniques that have been practiced for centuries. Original texts by international experts offer historical context, unspool the mysteries behind ancient iconography, and provide new insights into dating and provenance. At once opulent and scholarly, this book arrives at a moment of growing interest in Southeast Asian culture and carries the imprimatur of one of the art world's leading collectors. Contributors: Lorraine Aragon, Joanna Barrkman, Chris Buckley, Kristal Hale, Valerie Hector, Janet Alison Hoskins, Itie van Hout, Eric Kjellgren, Fiona Kerlogue, Brigitte Khan Majlis, Robyn Maxwell, Thomas Murray, and Sandra Sardjono.

The basic principles of the flat-pattern method are the foundation of producing effective apparel designs. Principles of Flat-Pattern Design, 4th Edition, maintains its simple and straightforward presentation of flat-patternmaking principles which is proven to be less intimidating for beginning students. Numbered and fully illustrated steps guide students through a logical series of pattern manipulation procedures, each beginning with a flat sketch of the design to be developed and ending with a representation of the completed pattern. A significant expansion of the introductory chapters in this 4th Edition aligns the patternmaking process with current industry practices, including technological advancements, design analysis, and production basics such as grading, marker making, and specifications.

Woven coverlets have appeared in several guises within the history of folk textiles. Created on four-harness looms, coverlets made in the nineteenth-century American South typically featured colored wool and cotton threads woven into striking geometric patterns. Although they are not as well known as other textiles and domestic objects, "overshot" coverlets were, and continue to be, significant examples of material culture that require tremendous skill and creativity to produce. They also express currents of conformity and dissent. In addition to being pleasing to the eye and hand, "overshot" coverlets have advanced a variety of social and political ends. At times exhibited in slave quarters along the seaboard in Georgia and South Carolina in association with plantation properties, they also appear in piedmont areas attached to the antebellum yeomanry, in the context of nationalist craft revivals, and in white-box contemporary art. With Overshot, Susan Falls and Jessica R. Smith analyze what we can learn by examining the exhibition and interpretation of these materials within American public history. By showing how geometric overshot coverlets can be understood in relationship to the global economy and within politicized cultural movements, Falls and Smith demonstrate how these erstwhile domestic, utilitarian objects explode the art/craft dichotomy, belong to a rich narrative of historical art forms, and tell us far more about American culture today than simply representing a nostalgic past, particularly with regard to ideas about race, class, nationalism, women's labor, and the separation of private versus public spaces.

In an era of increasingly available digital resources, many textile designers and makers find themselves at an interesting juncture between traditional craft processes and newer digital technologies. Highly specialized craft/design practitioners may now elect to make use of digital processes in their work, but often choose not to abandon craft skills fundamental to their practice, and aim to balance the complex connection between craft and digital processes. The essays collected here consider this transition from the viewpoint of aesthetic opportunity arising in the textile designer's hands-on experimentation with material and digital technologies available in the present. Craft provides the foundations for thinking within the design and production of textiles, and as such may provide some clues in the transition to creative and thoughtful use of current and future digital technologies. Within the framework of current challenges relating to sustainable development, globalization, and economic constraints it is important to interrogate and question how we might go about using established and emerging technologies in textiles in a positive manner.

Printed cotton sacks are currently fashionable aspects for material culture research, particularly in the costume and quilt history communities. In the second quarter of the twentieth century, these mass-produced sacks were relied upon by rural America as a valuable source of free fabric for clothing, quilts, and home decor. This book is the catalog for the Museum of Texas Tech University's "Cotton and Thrift" exhibition, which showcases the Pat L. Nickols Cotton Sack Research Collection. The Nickols Collection includes white sacks, printed partial and whole cotton sacks, swatches of printed sacks, instructional booklets, garments, quilts, quilt tops and decorated white sacks. Combined with earlier and subsequent individual donations, the almost 6000 feed sack pieces held by the Museum of TTU make this the largest collection of feed sack materials to be assembled by an American university, and likely the largest such collection in public hands.

Textiles connect a variety of practices and traditions, ranging from the refined couture garments of Parisian fashion to the high-tech filaments strong enough to hoist a satellite into space. High-performance fabrics are being reconceived as immersive webs, structural networks and information exchanges, and their ability to interface with technology is changing how the human body is experienced and how the urban environment is built. Today, textiles reveal their capacity to transform our world more than any other material. "Textile Futures" highlights recent works from key practitioners and examines the changing role of textiles. Recent developments present new technical possibilities that are beginning to redefine textiles as a uniquely multidisciplinary field of innovation and research. This book is an important tool for any textile practitioner, fashion designer, architect, interior designer or student designer interested in following new developments in the field of textiles, seeking new sustainable sources, or just eager to discover new works that reveal the potency of textiles as an ultramaterial.

In 1996 more than two hundred mummies and skeletal remains accompanied by a rich array of burial offerings were discovered at a cliff side burial site overlooking Laguna de los Condores in the cloud forest of Chachapoyas. In spite of the humid climate in this remote corner of Peru's northeastern Andes, many of the organic remains, including textiles, were extraordinarily well preserved. The textiles are today stored or exhibited at the Museo Leymebamba. The find includes the best preserved and largest cache of Chachapoya textiles known to date, providing researchers with a unique opportunity to learn about little-known Chachapoya weaving techniques, iconography, style, politics, and trade connections, mostly from the Chachapoya-Inca period, ca. 1470-1532. This richly illustrated volume studies forty-five selected textiles, both burial offerings and mummy bundle wrappings, with chapters on Chachapoya iconography, culture, and quipus (talking knots), as well as a description of the project launched to rescue the finds and the construction of the Museo Leymebamba.

In this innovative collaborative ethnography of Italian-Chinese ventures in the fashion industry, Lisa Rofel and Sylvia J. Yanagisako offer a new methodology for studying transnational capitalism. Drawing on their respective linguistic and regional areas of expertise, Rofel and Yanagisako show how different historical legacies of capital, labor, nation, and kinship are crucial in the formation of global capitalism. Focusing on how Italian fashion is manufactured, distributed, and marketed by Italian-Chinese ventures and how their relationships have been complicated by China's emergence as a market for luxury goods, the authors illuminate the often-overlooked processes that produce transnational capitalism-including privatization, negotiation of labor value, rearrangement of accumulation, reconfiguration of kinship, and outsourcing of inequality. In so doing, Fabricating Transnational Capitalism reveals the crucial role of the state and the shifting power relations between nations in shaping the ideas and practices of the Italian and Chinese partners.

The so-called chasuble of Thomas Becket (1118-1170) is one of the most magnificent medieval textiles in the Mediterranean region. Richly decorated with ornaments, fabulous animals and figures in lavish gold embroidery with Arabic inscriptions, this precious liturgical garment provides impressive proof of the reutilisation of the Islamic arts in the Christian world. Venerated as a relic of St Thomas of Canterbury, the chasuble was produced in Spanish-Muslim workshops and probably reached Italy as a donation to the Cathedral of Fermo in about 1200. Despite its outstanding artistic quality and fascinating history, this magnificent garment has never hitherto been the subject of a detailed study. Richly illustrated with numerous details, this volume investigates the meaning of the inscriptions and motifs, examines manufacturing techniques and the function of the chasuble, traces its "biography" and places it within the historical context of the political, economic and cultural situation in the Mediterranean region.