Ai Hisano exposes how corporations, the American government, and
consumers shaped the colors of what we eat and even the colors of
what we consider "natural," "fresh," and "wholesome." The yellow of
margarine, the red of meat, the bright orange of "natural"
oranges-we live in the modern world of the senses created by
business. Ai Hisano reveals how the food industry capitalized on
color, and how the creation of a new visual vocabulary has shaped
what we think of the food we eat. Constructing standards for the
colors of food and the meanings we associate with them-wholesome,
fresh, uniform-has been a business practice since the late
nineteenth century, though one invisible to consumers. Under the
growing influences of corporate profit and consumer expectations,
firms have sought to control our sensory experiences ever since.
Visualizing Taste explores how our perceptions of what food should
look like have changed over the course of more than a century. By
examining the development of color-controlling technology,
government regulation, and consumer expectations, Hisano
demonstrates that scientists, farmers, food processors, dye
manufacturers, government officials, and intermediate suppliers
have created a version of "natural" that is, in fact, highly
engineered. Retailers and marketers have used scientific data about
color to stimulate and influence consumers'-and especially female
consumers'-sensory desires, triggering our appetites and cravings.
Grasping this pivotal transformation in how we see, and how we
consume, is critical to understanding the business of food.
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