In nineteenth-century Europe and the United States, fashion--once
the province of the well-to-do--began to make its way across class
lines. At once a democratizing influence and a means of maintaining
distinctions, gaps in time remained between what the upper classes
wore and what the lower classes later copied. And toward the end of
the century, style also moved from the streets to the parlor. The
third in a four-part series charting the social, cultural, and
political expression of clothing, dress, and accessories, "
Fashioning the Nineteenth Century "focuses on this transformative
period in an effort to show how certain items of apparel acquired
the status of fashion and how fashion shifted from the realm of the
elites into the emerging middle and working classes--and
back.
The contributors to this volume are leading scholars from
France, Italy, and the United States, as well as a practicing
psychoanalyst and artists working in fashion and with textiles.
Whether considering girls' school uniforms in provincial Italy,
widows' mourning caps in Victorian novels, Charlie's varying dress
in Kate Chopin's eponymous story, or the language of clothing in
Henry James, the essays reveal how changes in ideals of the body
and its adornment, in classes and nations, created what we now
understand to be the imperatives of fashion.
Contributors: Dagni Bredesen, Eastern Illinois U; Carmela
Covato, U of Rome Three; Agnes Derail-Imbert, ecole Normale
Superieure/VALE U of Paris, Sorbonne; Clair Hughes, International
Christian University of Tokyo; Bianca Iaccarino Idelson; Beryl
Korot; Anna Masotti; Bruno Monfort, Universite of Paris, Ouest
Nanterre La Defense; Giuseppe Nori, U of Macerata, Italy; Marta
Savini, U of Rome Three; Anna Scacchi, U of Padua; Carroll
Smith-Rosenberg, U of Michigan.
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