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The Culinarians - Lives and Careers from the First Age of American Fine Dining (Hardcover)
Loot Price: R1,383
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The Culinarians - Lives and Careers from the First Age of American Fine Dining (Hardcover)
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He presided over Virginia's great political barbeques for the last
half of the nineteenth century, taught the young Prince of Wales to
crave mint juleps in 1859, catered to Virginia's mountain spas, and
fed two generations of Richmond epicures with terrapin and turkey.
This fascinating culinarian is John Dabney (1821-1900), who was
born a slave, but later built an enterprising catering business.
Dabney is just one of 175 influential cooks and restaurateurs
profiled by David S. Shields in The Culinarians, a beautifully
produced encyclopedic history of the rise of professional cooking
in America from the early republic to Prohibition. Shields's
concise biographies include the legendary Julien, founder in 1793
of America's first restaurant, Boston's Restorator; and Louis Diat
and Oscar of the Waldorf, the men most responsible for keeping the
ideal of fine dining alive between the World Wars. Though many of
the gastronomic pioneers gathered here are less well known, their
diverse influence on American dining should not be overlooked plus,
their stories are truly entertaining. We meet an African American
oyster dealer who became the Congressional caterer, and, thus, a
powerful broker of political patronage; a French chef who was a
culinary savant of vegetables and drove the rise of California
cuisine in the 1870s; and a rotund Philadelphia confectioner who
prevailed in a culinary contest with a rival in New York by staging
what many believed to be the greatest American meal of the
nineteenth century. He later grew wealthy selling ice cream to the
masses. Shields also introduces us to a French chef who brought
haute cuisine to wealthy prospectors and a black restaurateur who
hosted a reconciliation dinner for black and white citizens at the
close of the Civil War in Charleston. Altogether, Culinarians is a
delightful compendium of charcuterie-makers, pastry-pipers,
caterers, railroad chefs, and cooking school matrons not to mention
drunks, temperance converts, and gangsters who all had a hand in
creating the first age of American fine dining and its legacy of
conviviality and innovation that continues today.
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