One winter, Dervla Murphy, the four-footed Hallam (the mule) and
her six-year-old daughter Rachel explored 'Little Tibet' high up in
the Karakoram Mountains in the frozen heart of the Western
Himalayas - on the Pakistan side of the disputed border with
Kashmir. For three months they travelled along the perilous Indus
Gorge and into nearby valleys. Even when beset by crumbling tracks
over bottomless chasms, an assault by a lascivious dashniri, the
unnerving melancholy of the Balts - the heroic highland farmers who
inhabit the area - and Rachel's continual probing questions, this
formidable traveller retained her enthusiasm for her surroundings
and her sense of humour. First published in 1977, "Where the Indus
is Young" is pure Murphy. 'The grandeur, weirdness, variety and
ferocity of this region cannot be exaggerated,' she writes of the
sub-zero temperatures, harsh winds and whipping sands that they
faced. However much the region may have changed due to current day
political situations her descriptions of the mountain splendour and
cultures she explores are appropriately timeless.
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