When John Dunlop gives Judy Scott a lift to Glencoe on his
motorbike, both are surprised when a relationship develops. But for
John all passions must be relegated to the demands of the big
climb. The focus soon shifts to the Alps where he teams up with the
American climber Jack McDonald. Their careful planning goes awry
and a major first ascent bid turns into an intense struggle
bringing disaster and tragedy. Calculated Risk is a fictional
portrayal of the world of mountaineering, of climbing the most
demanding routes at a time when climbing was still emerging from
its primitive inter-war and post war austerities and such routes
were a stark struggle against the elements. The realities and
tensions of big-time climbing, firmly focussed on the Alps and the
Himalaya, are revealed with greater clarity through the medium of
fiction. Dougal Haston was among Britain's leading mountaineers. A
controversial figure, he began climbing in Scotland, putting up
numerous new routes before moving on to bigger mountains and
ascents of Annapurna, Everest and Denali. He was part of the team
which, in 1966, made a directtissima ascent of the North Face of
the Eiger. In 1967, Haston became Director of the International
School of Mountaineering at Leysin in Switzerland. He wrote
Calculated Risk in 1977, shortly before his death while skiing
above Leysin - an accident strangely foretold in the book.
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