For the great English food writer Elizabeth David, summer fare
means neither tepid nor timid. Her stress is always on fresh,
seasonal food-- recipes that can be quickly prepared and slowly
savored, from Gnocchi alla Genovese ("simply an excuse for eating
"pesto"") to La Poule au Pot to Gooseberry Fool. Divided into such
sections as Soup, Poultry and Game, Vegetables, and Dessert, her
1955 classic includes an overview of herbs as well as chapters on
impromptu cooking for holidays and picnics. Chockablock with both
invaluable instructions and tart rejoinders to the pallid and the
overblown, "Summer Cooking" is a witty, precise companion for
feasting in the warmer months.
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