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the selection of meat it is most essential that we understand how
to choose it; in beef it should be a smooth, fine grain, of a clear
bright red color, the fat white, and will feel tender when pinched
with the fingers. Will also have abundant kidney fat or suet. The
most choice pieces for roast are the sirloin, fore and middle ribs.
Veal, to be good, should have the flesh firm and dry, fine grained
and of a delicate pinkish color, and plenty of kidney fat; the
joints stiff. Mutton is good when the flesh is a bright red, firm
and juicy and a close grain, the fat firm and white. Pork: if
young, the lean will break on being pinched smooth when nipped with
the fingers, also the skin will break and dent; if the rind is
rough and hard it is old. In roasting meat, allow from fifteen to
twenty minutes to the pound, which will vary according to the
thickness of the roast. A great deal of the success in roasting
depends on the heat and goodness of the fire; if put into a cool
oven it loses its juices, and the result is a tough, tasteless
roast; whereas, if the oven is of the proper heat, it immediately
sears up the pores of the meat and the juices are retained. The
oven should be the hottest when the meat is put into it, in order
to quickly crisp the surface and close the pores of the meat,
thereby confining ite natural juices. If the oven is too hot to
hold the hand in for only a moment, then the oven is right to
receive the meat. The roast should first be washed in pure water,
then wiped dry with a clean dry cloth, placed in a baking-pan,
without any seasoning; some pieces of suet or cold drippings laid
under it, but no water should be put into the pan, for this would
have a tendency to soften the outside of the meat. The water can
never get so hot as the hot fat up...
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