In a lighthearted homage to a threatened way of life, an American
anthropologist recalls his first year among the Saami reindeer
herders of Lapland. Beach (Cultural Anthropology/Uppsala
University, Sweden) was 15 when his Swedish grandmother first took
him to a Saami summer calf-marking, in which reindeer herders notch
the ears of their herds' newest additions before releasing them for
grazing. The incident marked Beach as well: After studying
anthropology at Harvard, he raced back to Sweden in 1973 to sign up
as a reindeer hand with the Tuorpon herders of Jokkmokk, north of
the Arctic Circle. Teased, humored, and painstakingly educated by
his polite and often mischievous hosts, the author joined a herder
family at their summer settlement, where he listened to tales of
evil trolls and ghost reindeer herds; partook in fortune-telling
sessions; and learned to fish Saami-style and to share his cognac
afterward. Moving on to Staloluokta, Beach was lent an empty
goattieh (a dome-shaped, turf-covered dwelling) and allowed to help
with the gathering and marking of the reindeer. In August, he
journeyed to Parka to help separate the herds before mating season.
But the most difficult and dramatic season was winter, when the
herders ventured on skis through blinding blizzards, first to hunt
moose, then to guide their herds back toward summer grazing. Beach
gratefully suffered frostbite, snow blindness, and freezing nights
for the chance to live the Saami life. Having returned often since,
he has witnessed the bureaucratic restrictions, misguided
conservation efforts, and wind-borne radiation from Chernobyl that
continue to affect the herders, but he remains convinced that the
Saami sense of identity continues intact, and he reminds readers
that to remain static is also to die. An enthusiastic report by a
man in love with his subject, best read on a cold winter's night.
(Kirkus Reviews)
As a young man American Hugh Beach went to live with the Saami
reindeer herders of Swedish Lapland. His lyrically written and very
personal story of trying to fit into the herding way of life is a
rare insider's account of the Saami. In a passionate and informed
Afterword to this new edition of the book, he revisits his old
friends and looks at how Sweden is attempting to balance the
conflicting needs of reindeer herders and environmentalists in the
21st century.
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