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CHAP. III. DININO-HOUSES, OR RESTAURATEURS. About the year 1770,
after the glorious days of the-reign of Louis XIV., the roueries of
the Ee- gency and the long tranquillity of the ministry of Cardinal
Fleury, travellers arriving at Paris had but few places where they
could get a good dinner. They had to put up at hotels, generally
bad. A few had table-d'hotes, which however only just offered what
was necessary for a meal, and moreover were at fixed hours. There
were a few "traiteurs," but they had usually nothing but joints;
and a man who wished to give a dinner to his friends, was obliged
to order it beforehand; so that men who had not the good luck to
have an introduction into opulent houses, had to leave the capital
without becoming acquainted with the resources and delicacies of a
Parisian kitchen. At last a man of intellect was found who tookthe
subject into consideration; he argued that, as the same wants
occurred at about the same hour every day, men would not fail to
come, if they found they were readily and well served; that if one
man had a wing of chicken, the next comer would take the leg, and
so on; that a slice from a prime joint would not spoil the
remainder, and that a man who found he got a good dinner, would not
grumble at a little expense, if promptly served, and well waited
upon; and that a carte, with fixed prices for every dish, would be
suitable to all fortunes. This man did not stop short here, but
developed his idea still further. He was the first restaurateur,
and created a profession which leads to fortune whenever the
professor is honest, and combines order with skill. From France,
restaurateurs soon spread to the rest of Europe. The institution is
one of extreme advantage to every citizen, and of high importance
to science. A man can ...
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