Acetaria (1699) was a book with many subjects: the rights and
wrongs of vegetarianism; the virtues of eating more salads;
cultivating the plants that made them memorable; and recipes for
their use. It shows John Evelyn as more than arbiter of visual
taste -- his central historical role -- but as one of England's
first gastronomes. Acetaria exposes English cookery at a critical
moment as it departed from medieval forms and embraced the new
styles of France and Europe. Its arguments still have resonance and
can be counted as revolutionary at the time they were first
expressed.
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