Fur has been sparking controversies ever since sumptuary laws
marked it as a luxury item and as a sign of medieval class
privilege. Drawing on wide-ranging historical and contemporary
sources, Julia V. Emberley explains how a material good has become
both a symbol of wealth and sexuality, and a symptom of class,
gender, and imperial antagonisms.
Emberley documents the 1980s confrontations between animal
rights activists and native peoples that pitted Lynx, the
organization responsible for the high-profile anti-fur ads in Great
Britain, against Inuit and Dene societies' claims for a livelihood
based on the selling and trading, consumption and production of
animal fur.
The fetishization of fur, Emberley shows, extends from early
modern paintings and etchings to late nineteenth-century literary
and psychoanalytical narratives of sexual fantasy, such as von
Sacher-Masoch's novel Venus in Furs. Contemporary advertising and
fashion photography, as well as films such as Paris is Burning
reveal the ongoing fetishistic practices of the fashion world. From
colonial fur trading to twentieth-century globalization of the fur
industry, Emberley analyzes the cultural, political, material, and
libidinal values ascribed to fur.
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