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The $16 Taco - Contested Geographies of Food, Ethnicity, and Gentrification (Hardcover)
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The $16 Taco - Contested Geographies of Food, Ethnicity, and Gentrification (Hardcover)
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Having "discovered" the flavors of barbacoa, bibimbap, banh mi,
sambusas, and pupusas, white middle-class eaters are increasingly
venturing into historically segregated neighborhoods in search of
"authentic" eateries run by-and for-immigrants and people of color.
Fueled by media attention and capitalized on by developers, this
interest in "ethnic" food and places contributes to gentrification,
and the very people who produced these vibrant foodscapes are
increasingly excluded from them. Drawing on extensive fieldwork,
geographer Pascale Joassart-Marcelli traces the transformation of
three urban San Diego neighborhoods whose foodscapes are shifting
from serving the needs of longtime minoritized residents who face
limited food access to pleasing the tastes of wealthier and whiter
newcomers. The $16 Taco illustrates how food can both emplace and
displace immigrants, shedding light on the larger process of
gentrification and the emotional, cultural, economic, and physical
displacement it produces. It also highlights the contested food
geographies of immigrants and people of color by documenting their
contributions to the cultural food economy and everyday struggles
to reclaim ethnic foodscapes and lead flourishing and hunger-free
lives. Joassart-Marcelli offers valuable lessons for cities where
food-related development projects transform neighborhoods at the
expense of the communities they claim to celebrate.
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