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Discriminating Taste - How Class Anxiety Created the American Food Revolution (Paperback)
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Discriminating Taste - How Class Anxiety Created the American Food Revolution (Paperback)
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Winner of the 2018 First Book Prize from the Association for the
Study of Food and Society For the past four decades, increasing
numbers of Americans have started paying greater attention to the
food they eat, buying organic vegetables, drinking fine wines, and
seeking out exotic cuisines. Yet they are often equally passionate
about the items they refuse to eat: processed foods, generic
brands, high-carb meals. While they may care deeply about issues
like nutrition and sustainable agriculture, these discriminating
diners also seek to differentiate themselves from the unrefined
eater, the common person who lives on junk food. Discriminating
Taste argues that the rise of gourmet, ethnic, diet, and organic
foods must be understood in tandem with the ever-widening income
inequality gap. Offering an illuminating historical perspective on
our current food trends, S. Margot Finn draws numerous parallels
with the Gilded Age of the late nineteenth century, an era infamous
for its class divisions, when gourmet dinners, international
cuisines, slimming diets, and pure foods first became fads.
Examining a diverse set of cultural touchstones ranging from
Ratatouille to The Biggest Loser, Finn identifies the key ways that
“good food” has become conflated with high status. She also
considers how these taste hierarchies serve as a distraction,
leading middle-class professionals to focus on small acts of
glamorous and virtuous consumption while ignoring their class’s
larger economic stagnation. A provocative look at the ideology of
contemporary food culture, Discriminating Taste teaches us to
question the maxim that you are what you eat.
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